TL- electronic or pickup upgrades

[RocknRolf]

I have put all the measurements of the kit pickup, TRT1 and the hole in the bridge plate in the visual below.

Comparing the kit bridge plate with Gotoh and some other bridges on the market I found out they all use the same measurements. As you can see in the visual from Tonerider the measurement I took and those given by Tonerider match(+/-).

So the question becomes: If all the bridges are the same and tonerider makes their pickups in this slightly larger size, how do other people squeeze them through?

Again it is likely a matter of 1mm to clear, but I feel uncomfortable pushing one side of the coil harder up against the hole in the bridge plate, whilst trying to squeeze the other side through.


I could always ask tonerider if this is a familiar problem, or sand a bit from the bridge away, or a bit from the fibreboard.

[Simon Barden]

The diagrams for Gotoh I’ve seen indicate a 74mm or 74.2mm long pickup hole, 19.8mm wide, which should be just big enough to fit the Tonerider through. I think I’ve had to push DiMarzio and Iron Gear Tele bridge pickups through the hole before as they are a tight fit. Finding dimensions for other makes isn’t easy. I’m sure the original Fender dimensions would have been imperial, say 2 9/10” x 3/4”.

So to me the kit bridge hole is a bit smaller than standard whilst the Tonerider pickup is a vintage Fender size.

Only got my mobile for the next few days, so my ability to look things up and give a miore definite answer is limited.

[RocknRolf]

I must've just checked the ones that were similar, because the first gotoh I open now is 74mm.

Honestly I am not happy to spend 100$ on another bridge now. So I will probably try to use the dremel and sand both sides away 0.5mm to make it fit. Also because I think McCreed might be right that the fibreboard will fray or in any way has a higher likelihood of looking off than sanding the bridge.

Thanks for your suggestions.

[RocknRolf]

Fixed!
Yet attention for anyone attempting something similar, the gold on the bridge is like a sticker.
I used the sanding drum on my rotary tool to widen the pickup space, then applied 2second glue to keep the gold in place, viola.

[Simon Barden]

It is normally very thin gold plate over chrome (sometimes nickel). A light rub over with metal polish and it’s gone. i can well believe that it doesn’t adhere to the underlying plate that well.

Never try and polish gold hardware with metal polish of any kind. Water and a soft cloth is the most you should use. However, being gold, it is pretty unreactive so anything on the surface should normally just rub off.

[RocknRolf]

Yes, I already assumed it was going to react the way it was, so somewhat prepared.

[McCreed]

Glad to hear you got it sorted Rolf.
It's another example of little PITA things that should never have needed doing had it been done properly at the factory.
But it is what it is.

FWIW, if I was opening up the pickup hole in the bridge by only .5mm x 2 , I would have done it with a combination of a flat file for the sides and a round file on the radiused ends. It would be much slower going, but it may have been gentler on the plating (or maybe not given how thin it is). Sometimes even a dremel on it lowest setting can be too aggressive for some jobs. Also, from what I've found, the finest grit with those sanding drums is still quite coarse.

At the end of the day you got it done without further expense. That's all that matters.

[RocknRolf]

Little update:
Decided to first just swap the pickups and change the Tusq nut before installing the push-pull pot for parallel switching.
Didn't want to have the guitar on the bench longer since it is my only electric and I have some time to play this week.
Also because I haven't found a schematic for volume push-pull parallel switching. Still going through the archives.


Regarding the difference in sound, I couldn't be happier! It is a massive difference. So much more clarity and dynamics.

[McCreed]

Good result!

Also because I haven't found a schematic for volume push-pull parallel switching. Still going through the archives.

Most diagrams you'll find online do show the push-pull on the tone pot, however you can use the push/pull pot on the volume the exact same way. Just connect the wires shown on the tone pot version to the switch portion of the push/pull volume pot. Think of the switch as a separate entity (even though it's physically connected to a pot).

I'm going to be doing the same mod to one of my teles, except I'm using a push/push pot.

Here's a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hHPxAQu4NA

And remember you need to ground the cover of the neck pickup separately (covered in the video).

EDIT TO ADD:
Not to split hairs here, but technically the mod is "series switching" not parallel switching as you stated above.
The standard tele switching configuration puts the neck & bridge pickups in parallel when used together already. The switch (via push/pull, 4-way etc) puts them in series.

[RocknRolf]

Good result!



Most diagrams you'll find online do show the push-pull on the tone pot, however you can use the push/pull pot on the volume the exact same way. Just connect the wires shown on the tone pot version to the switch portion of the push/pull volume pot. Think of the switch as a separate entity (even though it's physically connected to a pot).

I'm going to be doing the same mod to one of my teles, except I'm using a push/push pot.

Here's a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hHPxAQu4NA

And remember you need to ground the cover of the neck pickup separately (covered in the video).

EDIT TO ADD:
Not to split hairs here, but technically the mod is "series switching" not parallel switching as you stated above.
The standard tele switching configuration puts the neck & bridge pickups in parallel when used together already. The switch (via push/pull, 4-way etc) puts them in series.

You may split hairs, otherwise, I'll never learn.


Thanks for sharing that video and clarifying that I need to see that part of the push/pull pot as a separate entity, makes sense!
Do you think upgrading the kits 3-way switch to an Oak Grigsby or standard Fender US one is going to make a difference?
I have connected wires to it now a couple of times now and it is starting to look a bit hammered, that's why.