Build - TL-1

[ross.pearson]

Perfect, thanks! Much appreciated!

[vivek_rc]

Hi All,

Just an update, I’ve sanded the body starting from 180, 240 and 400. Should I go further?


For the neck I sanded the back with a 400. I’m going to use truoil on the neck.

A question, for the fret
board, should I also give it a light sand with a 400? Is it recommended as I also want to apply the truoil to the fretboard

Thanks all

Vman

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Vman,
"Just an update, I’ve sanded the body starting from 180, 240 and 400. Should I go further?"

That all depends on how you are finishing the body. Are you staining the body, or just tru-oiling it? If staining you will probably want to go back to 240 grit. It should not matter if tru-oiling.

"A question, for the fretboard, should I also give it a light sand with a 400?"

Does it need a sand? If there are any marks I would , otherwise I would leave it. I have only done one maple fretboard and it did not need any sanding!

Others may suggest alternatives.

[McCreed]

Hi All,

Just an update, I’ve sanded the body starting from 180, 240 and 400. Should I go further?


For the neck I sanded the back with a 400. I’m going to use truoil on the neck.

A question, for the fret
board, should I also give it a light sand with a 400? Is it recommended as I also want to apply the truoil to the fretboard

Thanks all

Vman

I wouldn't go beyond P400. Most recommend only going to P240, but I have gone to P400 on some builds. If you go too fine, the wood can become too smooth (in essence, polished) and can make it more difficult for: a) stain/dye to penetrate, or b) paint to adhere to.

I am of the opinion (and my opinion only) that P400 that is sold in Australia can be ok as it is more coarse than 400 you see discussed on USA sites... but that's a whole discussion other which I have posted about before.

As for sanding the fretboard, unless there are manufacturing marks or defects that need fixing/removing, typically no sanding should be necessary. I typically just sand the back, fretboard edge and all of the headstock.

[McCreed]

Hah! 7 minutes too late, but it seems Trevor and I are on the same page!

[vivek_rc]

Hah! 7 minutes too late, but it seems Trevor and I are on the same page!

Hey Trevor, McCeed

Thanks for the advice, and it was just in time.

I’m actually planning to use a Dingotone butterscotch finish on the body and I just had a look at the instructions, and yup they say to go to 240. I got a bit carried away with the sanding. Will go over the body again with 240.

Also been reading about getting rid of the raised grain, which will come up when I start to stain. Is it ok to wipe the body down and neck with a wet rag and get rig of the raised grain with 0000 steel wool or should I use denatured alcohol? Or is there a better method? Or don’t bother?

Thanks

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Vman,
I have not done it, but a damp (water or alcohol) cloth will raise the grain. Then hit it with 240 g again. Most people on this site tend to avoid steel wool as it tends to leave small bits in the timber.

[vivek_rc]

Hi Vman,
I have not done it, but a damp (water or alcohol) cloth will raise the grain. Then hit it with 240 g again. Most people on this site tend to avoid steel wool as it tends to leave small bits in the timber.

Thanks Trevor, will give that a shot


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vivek_rc]

Hi Friends,

Before I started any staining, thought I might shape the headstock. I got a template from the net and came up with the shape shown here.

Would appreciate Any feedback how it looks in terms of any issues such as with tuners if I cut out this shape?



Thanks

[Simon Barden]

No tuner issues there.