Mainly tap from the ends of the nut. A few gentle taps on the sides can help free the glue bond there, but tap very gently indeed when tapping towards the headstock, as it’s very easy to hit it too hard and the end of the fretboard can break off. If it does, then you can normally glue it back on (do it straight away so you don’t lose any bits).
Best to mask off around the nut to minimise damage if you slip with the hammer.
As everyone above says, take it gently. I used a scalpel to score in the gap between the fret-board and the nut, then used a jeweler's screwdriver between the edge of the nut and the groove it sits in to lift it gently at each end
As Simon says (always wanted to say that) there's not much holding them in, so they come off OK
I used a little blob of impact glue to hold the new nut in, but don't do that until you have done the final set-up as they usually need lowering to give a reasonable action.
Cutting down the edge of the nut with a sharp blade is really only necessary for finished necks with finish on one or both sides (rosewood boards normally only the headstock side, maple board, both sides) to avoid pulling off/cracking the finish when the nut comes off. Only really worth doing on a new neck if there is visible glue on the join.
Thanks for all your advice on removing the plastic nut! I ended up using a thin small screwdriver and a hammer and carefully tapped on the join until it loosened. Then I was able to just prise it open and pull the nut out.
It looks like I will have to glue the bone nut in as it is not as thick as the plastic nut so it won’t simply stay in the cavity on its own.
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Took me a few hours to sand but very happy with the snug fit of the neck to the body
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Remember that putting finish on the neck will make it even snugger, so if it's very tight now, it probably won't go in with a few coats of finish on.
Oh wow yes! I hadn’t thought of that. Will sand the pocket a little bit more then to allow for the finish. Thanks Simon.Originally Posted by Simon Barden
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That's a decent sized hammer for that job, no wonder it came out
I tend to do the finish and then sand the pocket if needs be at the end rather than making it over-sized now. if you use a thin finish you might find you don't need to do anything, I have only has to once, with a multi-layered opaque colour finish. What are you planning on doing with the finish?
I like the three-strips of grain in it, it isn't a good mach bit is kinda a cool look
Sometimes the fretboard nut slot can require shimming if a pre-cut nut is too narrow. I use wood veneer to do this.It looks like I will have to glue the bone nut in as it is not as thick as the plastic nut so it won’t simply stay in the cavity on its own.
The veneer usually require a little thinning to accommodate the gap, and I find scraping it with a mini cabinet scraper (or utility knife blade) quicker and more accurate than sanding.
I always place the shim on the tuner side of the nut slot, so the distance from the bridge/saddles to the front of the nut is unaffected.
The difference to the intonation would likely be bugger-all, but I do it that way anyhow.
I have a few different veneers that keep on hand that be easily be tinted to match the fretboard timber. I have some Blackwood which works well with Rosewood when stained, and some Pine which can be made to match Maple pretty well.
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Cheers guys!
McCreed, I might use a bit of the offcut from when I shape the headstock to fill that little gap between the nut and headstock. It’s the right colour.
Andy and Colin, good point. I will just sand the inside of the neck pocket if need be.
And yes I love the tonal quality of this wood. I’m going colourless finish on the neck and on the body I’m going with Dingotone Karijini Red with the aim of it looking like red gum tree wood. The dingotone I’m hoping will enhance the beautiful fibres in the wood.
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