Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 41

Thread: Build #1 JB-4 Fretless

  1. #21
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    AUS
    Posts
    3,552
    I will add copper tape near the control cavity screws, great suggestion, and yes most definitely I need to work on my soldering skills!
    I was a bit ashamed of uploading that picture, but the feedback I have received definitely pushes me to do better the next time. Thank you!
    FWIW, my comment was not a critique, just an observation. Good soldering technique only comes with practise (good equipment helps as Andy pointed out).
    To me, soldering is a bit like spray painting a finish. It's something that takes a lot more time to get good at than it takes to do on a single guitar project. And unfortunately not something we (myself included) invest hours and hours doing and redoing just for the sake of self improvement. Especially with spray painting (gun or rattle can) , it gets expensive just blasting paint on scrap timber or cardboard!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    All good! I never interpreted your comment as a critique!
    On the contrary, I am very thankful of all the comments, suggestions, encouragement and constructive feedback received so far!

    I am enjoying building this bass and doing some research; this forum is very helpful, and full of people very generous with their time and knowledge.
    Last edited by FaustoB; 14-09-2021 at 08:56 AM.

  3. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    I have a question. Would wood timber filler like this or a wood touch up crayon like this be a good solution for adding side dots inlays to a fretless fretboard?

    Background informations.
    My fretboard has dots in the fretted position (in the middle of the fret), but I want them to be in the fretless position (where the fret is).

    Simon already provided some great solutions on how to remove the exisiting dots. The most approachable for me in terms of skills and tools is to drill out the dots and fill them with wood filler of a matching colour.

    About adding the side dots: I could drill the new holes and use a plastic rod with a drop of super glue, cut the rod and sand a little. I have seen also some side dots simply painted on the fretboard.
    I would like to try to use one of the products mentioned above (wood filler or waxstix) to fill the holes, to create white side dots inlays.
    What I mean is, drill the hole, fill it with white filler, sand lightly.

    Would that work?
    Both filler and touch up waxstix seem interesting products to have in the workspace, instead of plastic rods.
    Last edited by FaustoB; 11-09-2021 at 11:08 AM.

  4. #24
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    AUS
    Posts
    3,552
    If I were doing it, I'd go for plastic rods as my first option, and Timbermate as my second choice.
    I would avoid the filler crayons completely, even though I've never used one, it being a wax product sends up red flags for me when it comes applying a finish over it.

    I know it's a rosewood board, but the Tru Oil or poly or whatever should be applied on the side of the fretboard right up to the face/front of it. I would be concerned with the finish not adhering properly over the wax "dots" and any possible smearing that may occur when rubbing the wax into the holes. I could be completely wrong about this, but that never stopped me shooting off my mouth before!!!

    Another option, which would completely experimental and I take no responsibility for, is packing the holes with baking soda and wicking CA into the bi-carb. The baking soda/CA dries kind of an almost a pearl-like white colour. I haven't done this on a fretboard, but I have for repairing nuts, and even filling a dent that was to be painted over. It sets rock hard.

    IF you contemplate this, experiment on some scrap wood first (I would suggest a hardwood preferably). You want to pack the baking soda as tightly as you can, and leave it a little proud if you can. Then wick the CA so it too sits above the wood. Leave overnight then sand flush.

    A medium viscosity CA would be best, but standard stuff in a tube you get from the BGS will work ok too.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  5. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    Thank you McCreed for the suggestions.
    And thank you for sharing the experimental technique with baking soda, but I might leave it out of the equation for now.... and you were right to suggest the plastic rods option as first choice!

    Today I got some wood filler and did some for inlays tests of some hardwood I have here hanging around (not rosewood).
    Well... The results are a bit mixed. Some dots look really good and believable, other look a bit weird and uneven. The white filler over a dark wood it's not very forgiving, for my current wood skills at least.
    I think that I will abandon this idea and go ahead with the plastic rod. I did a test with some optical fibre I have hanging around and it's much easier & quicker & neater.

    I have been scouting around the house to try to find a little white plastic rod somewhere, or grab it from an old toy or similar... The idea if buying plastic doesn't sit right with me. Will keep looking.

  6. #26
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    AUS
    Posts
    3,552
    There's a lot of confirmation bias behind these things, when the real reason for one guitar sustaining better than another one is down to something completely different, and which is probably different in every case.
    What about Bamboo skewer? You can get them in 3mm diameter, and maybe there would be enough colour contrast between the bamboo and rosewood to work (dunno, just spit-balling here). Maybe the bamboo could be bleached first to brighten it up???

    It certainly have an organic look to it...
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  7. #27
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    That's a great idea! Thanks for sharing!

    Last night I did few more tests, including cotton buds sticks(not bad but they are hollow in the centre), and a combination of pva glue and pale saw dust, which I quite like. Didn't think about the bamboo skewers, will try that next.

    My fretboard has been already stained black, that helps in terms of contrasts.

    Update on the stain & finish.
    I am happy the way the DingoTone looks and feels, it smells fantastic as well. It looks matte, which I quite like. I am considering few coats of Tru Oil to add some shine to it, I think that I will do a little test under the pickguard and under the tuners and take it from there.
    Last edited by FaustoB; 14-09-2021 at 09:23 AM.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by FaustoB View Post
    Last night I did few more tests, including cotton buds sticks(not bad but they are hollow in the centre), .
    Maybe you could fill the hollow bit with graphite powder and drip in some thin cyano to solidify it got contrasting black core surrounded by a white ring?

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    Maybe you could fill the hollow bit with graphite powder and drip in some thin cyano to solidify it got contrasting black core surrounded by a white ring?
    That's a good suggestion, thank you for sharing!

    I have tried to fill the cotton buds with white acrylic paint the other day, but it looked a bit messy. I could try with graphite, although I am realising more and more that I think that I don't like to add plastic to the fretboard, at least for this build.
    I guess is something about the fretless neck. It's so minimal that I want to add as little as possible.

    I have also considered just to drill a 1mm hole, and leave it, hollow.
    It looks great in daytime, but unfortunately in the evening with dim lights the holes lose any contrast, especially the ones looking down towards the 9, 12, 15, 17 fret.. On the unlined fretless I need some sort of reference position, not to mention the dirt that might accumulate over time.
    Last edited by FaustoB; 14-09-2021 at 09:28 AM.

  10. #30
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW
    Posts
    128
    ok, after many, many tests, and fun.

    In the photo below, on the right a piece of hardwood I have used for testing and learning. There's white timber filler there, black filler, sawdust with PVA glue, toothpicks, cotton buds, optical fibre ....
    The piece of timber on the left as a selection of the ones I think look best: white timber filler (3 dots on the left), and toothpick (last dot on the right)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2021-09-13 22.28.32-1.jpg 
Views:	132 
Size:	312.5 KB 
ID:	41604

    For a combination of look and simplicity of installation, at the moment I am incline towards the toothpick option. The white filler as a nice contrast, but it looks/feels like white paint.
    The neck and fretboard have been stained black, I am ok with the side dots not having too much contrast. The fretboard is fretless unlined, I want the dots to recede a little bit, and use my ears more!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2021-09-13 22.27.58 comparison.jpg 
Views:	135 
Size:	227.7 KB 
ID:	41605
    Last edited by FaustoB; 14-09-2021 at 09:20 AM.

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •