Build #1 JB-4 Fretless

[FaustoB]

Thanks Andyxlh.
That's a pattern generated by a computer using an algorithm I wrote. I had to tweak the code and do some test prints to get the right balance of lines, white, grey and black. Each print is unique. I am pleased with the result.
here I couple of different tests:
.

I have a question about shielding. I have purchased the copper tape from Pitbull Guitars, and I am trying to get my head around what to shield. I had a look online and clarified the topic a little, but got some confusion as well.

My understanding is that the all the front cavities on the JB4 need to be shielded. What I am not sure is if I am supposed to lay the copper on the front of the body as well, where the volume/tone controls are going be?

pictures below to illustrate

.

in orange is the outline of the copper tape that I intend to use, just a couple of mills exceeding onto the front body, to touch the metal of the control plate.

Is that the way of doing it?
and everywhere else the copper tape should be laid only inside the cavities, without going over the front of the body?

and what about the back of the pick guard? any copper tape there?

Thank you in advance

[FaustoB]

After a bit more research online I found this page with this image



Based on the discussion on that forum it seems that I will need to run a wire between the main cavity and the bridge pickup cavity, to connect those two sections of copper shield.

I am still not 100% sure what the copper on the back on the pick guard is doing though... is it like, the more shield around the electronics the better sort of thing?

[McCreed]

Based on the discussion on that forum it seems that I will need to run a wire between the main cavity and the bridge pickup cavity, to connect those two sections of copper shield.

I am still not 100% sure what the copper on the back on the pick guard is doing though... is it like, the more shield around the electronics the better sort of thing?

The principle of shielding this way is that we are creating contiguous copper "box" (aka: a Faraday Cage) around the pickups and control pots. The copper tape on the pickguard is like the lid of the box. You don't need to put any shielding on the control plate because it is made of metal and is itself conductive and creates the lid.

Connecting a wire from the bridge pickup cavity shielding to the control cavity shielding provides electrical continuity between the two. However, because the "copper box" in bridge pickup cavity has no top, there will be some compromise in the effectiveness of the shielding. But it still has an effect and a good idea to do it.

[FaustoB]

Thank you McCreed for clarifying this. Very clear response, I appreciate it.

Maybe this is basic stuff but it's all new for me! I upload here below a couple of photos in case is helpful for other beginners like myself.
This is the copper tape laid inside the 2 cavities



and here the wire soldered between the bridge pickup cavity shielding to the control cavity



Have checked with a multimeter for continuity and all sections are happily connected.

I don't have enough copper tape to do the back of the pickguard, will do another time.

I definitely underestimated this step. It wasn't overly complex but it took some time, precision and patience.

[Andyxlh]

That looks like an awesome job with the tape, well done!
The scratch plate looks very nice indeed, a little detail like that really lifts a design

[Simon Barden]

You can get copper tape online easily and cheaply e.g. Amazon and eBay. Also in DIY stores. Sometimes sold as shielding tape, sometimes as slug repellent tape.

Just make sure that the adhesive is quoted as conductive. Most is, but some isn't, which means you have to solder the pieces together to get continuity.

I make sure that the tape is run around the screw holes for the control plate, as the screws them bring the cover and tape into good contact. the more pressure on the contact, the lower resistance that contact joint will be.

[Andyxlh]

You can get copper tape online easily and cheaply e.g. Amazon and eBay. Also in DIY stores. Sometimes sold as shielding tape, sometimes as slug repellent tape.

Just make sure that the adhesive is quoted as conductive. Most is, but some isn't, which means you have to solder the pieces together to get continuity.

If I remember correctly the copper slug tape from Bunnings does not have continuity through the adhesive, I did check it out a few years ago as we go through a fair bit of it at school, but we stick with the Pitbull stuff now.

[McCreed]

Tidy work there.

I make sure that the tape is run around the screw holes for the control plate, as the screws them bring the cover and tape into good contact. the more pressure on the contact, the lower resistance that contact joint will be.

Yes, excellent point from Simon. It's how I do my shielding too. Below is a strat I did and the pickguard (not shown) has been shielded on the back so the copper tape at 4 screw holes makes a good solid contact.



It's hard to see for sure in your photo, but the solder on the wire in the control cavity looks like it could be flowed a bit better.
Next time you're doing your soldering, just hit it with the hot iron and reflow it just to be sure.

[FaustoB]

Thank you Andy, Simon and McCreed for your excellent advice and the words of encouragement.

I will add copper tape near the control cavity screws, great suggestion, and yes most definitely I need to work on my soldering skills!
I was a bit ashamed of uploading that picture, but the feedback I have received definitely pushes me to do better the next time. Thank you!

My ToneRider pickups have just arrived.
The package has handwritten DC outputs and a date (two days ago), which feels quite fancy and professional.
I've just done some readings about pickup DC outputs, very interesting... I am learning so much with this little project, I feel like I am enjoying building and playing bass even more.

Picture below if anyone is interested: bridge pup on the left (8.2k), neck pup on the right (7.5k)



I want to have a good go with the pickups provided with the kit first, before swapping them with Tonerider.

[Andyxlh]

Tonerider make great pickups. I haven't tried the Jazz ones (I went the Benson), but I have their tele and their humbuckers, as well as the Tonerider P Bass on the way. I'm sure you will be satisfied with them, they are excellent value too.
Soldering problems are mostly to do with a rubbish iron. At very least a new tip on the iron is great, and a decent iron makes soldering very easy.