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Thread: Melbourne DMS-4 build

  1. #1
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    Melbourne DMS-4 build

    Hi folks, just starting out on my first build.

    I picked up the kit in the middle of last year, for something to do during Melbourne's second lockdown, but never quite got to it. I'm on my way now, thanks to lots of information I've gleaned from this forum! So thought I would share.

    What I'm looking for is a bass to fill in the low end on my recordings:
    https://soundcloud.com/craig-white-305990583

    So far, I've been octave shifting my guitars down, but soon I hope to have the real thing up and running. So far, I've been working on the neck.

    1. Shaped the headstock. I was going for a F-type vibe, without being too similar. I hand drew the pattern on the paddle and cut it out with a jigsaw (using lots of relief cuts, as the maple is hard).
    2. Levelled the frets. There was only one that needed any real attention.
    3. Sanded the neck to 220 grit.
    4. Finished the neck with 6 coats of tru-oil. First 3 coats applied with a clean rag, then a scuffed with 0000 steel wool, then three more coats with a clean rag.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think I'll leave the finish on the neck there, as I'm a big fan of a satin feel. I'm hoping that I'll end up close to my favourite neck so far: back in the day I had a 1999 Maton MS500, and I hand-polished the neck on that thing through lots of practice and gigging. I'm hoping that with a light tru-oil finish and some play wear, I'll get to the same place with the neck on this.

    Now I'm on to the body, which I'm planning to sand and then grain fill before going for a solid colour.
    Last edited by flibblebob; 22-08-2021 at 04:20 PM.

  2. #2
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome flibblebob.

    Good luck with the build.
    The headstock looks good. FWIW - most (some!) builders on this site tend to avoid using steel wool (as little bits tend to get lodged into the finish) and use high grit sand wet/dry paper or scotchbrite abrasive pads. But if it worked for you then it doesn't matter.

    What colour/finish are you using for the body?
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  3. #3
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    Thanks Trevor!

    I think I got away with steel wool, but those alternatives do sound better (when I hit it with the steel wool, I did immediately worry that little bits would get lodged).

    After reading this thread I'm going with Rust Guard's all purpose primer, Montana MTN94 for colour, and then White Knight Crystal Clear. At this point, the colour is a three-way tie between Boreal Pink, Iguana Green, and Borneo Green. But the body is a nice piece of timber so, depending on how it looks after grain-filling, I may yet go with just tru-oil! Because I'm planning on solid colour, I'm experimenting with ebony timbermate to see if I might use that on a future transparent colour, so perhaps that will seal the deal...

  4. #4
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi Flibblebob.

    I think there is a rule not to mix timbermate with painted finish coats (something about swelling later!! - hopefully someone can add to this statement).
    I used ebony timbermate with my TLA-1 build and it highlighted the grain well. Then coated with tru-oil.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Oct 2016
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    Reading, UK
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    Hi and welcome.

    Best to start a build diary for getting stuck into the technical bits. You'll get a lot more replies there.

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