1st build: DTL-7

[McCreed]

Is Tru Oil readily available in Brazil, or do you have to import it?

If supply of Tru Oil is difficult, you could look for wipe-on polyurethane which may be easier to source. It will give a very similar result and the application is virtually the same as well.

Also, whilst I've never used it, there are water based polyurethanes that maybe more conducive to working inside a house or apartment as they don't have a turpentine component which has higher VOC level.

[Andyxlh]

Yeah, but I was playing it last night for the first time in a while, and I realised how poorly I've set it up (or not set it up, more accurately). Add that to my to-do list.

Anyway, I've hi-jacked your thread, davidaviola and I apologise. Would love to see a photo of the untouched kit if you have one.

Isn’t it nice when you revisit a project and can improve it? It means you are getting better at it, which is very rewarding

[Andyxlh]

In terms of finishing, I'm leaning towards something you can wipe on, because everytime I use a rattle can, I mess up. What I did to my wife's bike is grounds for divorce. I'm thinking tru-oil for the neck, because it seems like it's widely used with no real issues, but I'll attempt some french polishing on the body and see where that takes me.

That sounds like a sensible choice. I haven’t used wipe on stuff, but one of the students at school finished their maple guitar neck in Carnuba wax, it was really easy and looked great. Smelt nice too!

[McCreed]

That sounds like a sensible choice. I haven’t used wipe on stuff, but one of the students at school finished their maple guitar neck in Carnuba wax, it was really easy and looked great. Smelt nice too!

I know people do it (use wax) but FWIW, aftermarket parts vendors like Warmoth and Mighty Mite (both Fender Licensed) won't warranty their necks if finished with wax.

Probably not that relevant here (or in the student's case) but thought I'd mention it anyway.

[Andyxlh]

I know people do it (use wax) but FWIW, aftermarket parts vendors like Warmoth and Mighty Mite (both Fender Licensed) won't warranty their necks if finished with wax.

Probably not that relevant here (or in the student's case) but thought I'd mention it anyway.

I wonder why? Van halen used sweat and dirt to seal his necks 😁

[davidaviola]

McCreed, you're right. Tru-oil is imported down here and it is a bit expensive. I've seen some local luthiers sharing recipes for "homemade tru-oil", but poly might be less risky.

I'll also try to read up on finishing with Carnauba Wax. I always have a can of that stuff around that I use to touch up the furniture every now and then, but I didn't realize it was a finishing option. I'll try to find out how well it withstands the playing...

Thanks, all.

[McCreed]

McCreed, you're right. Tru-oil is imported down here and it is a bit expensive. I've seen some local luthiers sharing recipes for "homemade tru-oil", but poly might be less risky.

I tried the DIY Tru Oil a few years ago with very limited success. However, I know of at least one member here that uses it and sings its praises.
My experience was that it dried much slower and didn't build up at the same rate as genuine Tru Oil. These two factors negated any cost savings benefit in mixing my own.

As for poly, I do mix my own "homebrew wipe-on poly" but I use oiled based poly and turpentine so I didn't recommend it as an option for you, thinking you'd be using it indoors (not sure what facilities you have for a workspace).

FWIW, my wipe-on poly costs about 1/3 of the store-bought stuff and performs exactly the same.

[Simon Barden]

Carnauba wax isn't a normal finishing option for guitars. Whilst it is one of the hardest of waxes, it is still a wax and will be softer than other finish options. I'd definitely try it out on scrap wood first. Once you put it on, I'd imagine it would be very hard to remove to apply a different finish, and being a wax, I don't think many finishes would stick to it if applied on top.

It will probably need regular maintenance. From pictures of it in natural form, it looks yellow in any quantity, so will almost certainly tint the finish, and any deep pores in the grain may look light yellow due to an increased thickness of the wax. So it may work well on nice flat and fine-grained maple, but not be so good on mahogany or ash.

But until you try these things you don't know for sure. I'd suggest testing on some some scrap wood and see what you think. It shouldn't take too long to apply.

[davidaviola]

Thanks for the heads up, Simon. I've been reading up on finishing with wax and it's just like you said: if you apply it directly on wood, it will get in the pores and there will be no going back. Since this is my first build, I want something that's undoable if it goes very wrong, so I'd be sure to apply some sort of sealant before waxing it.

As for Carnauba Wax, at least in Brazil, you can either get it natural or transparent.

Sorry if I seem a little aimless regarding the finishing. I'll figure it out in the coming months! I have a crazy couple of months coming up in terms of work, so I'll concentrate on sanding, maybe doing the headstock and sourcing everything I'll need, but I'll leave the finishing for November, when I'll have the time to be disciplined about it.