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Thread: DMS-4 build in Tasmania

  1. #11
    Member Artherium Hum's Avatar
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    Okay, so I put shrink tube over the exposed wire and soldered up. I tested by tapping the pick ups with a screw driver and everything appeared to be working until I tried the toggle and it kind of jammed then kind of worked but I lost the bridge pick up signal. I quess the switch is faulty, I've taken the switch apart 2 times and it looks like nothing could go wrong....but it has.

    Thanks for the assistance.

  2. #12
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Those box-type toggle switches are prone to sudden failure. I have no idea why.

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  4. #13
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    Looks like we've started the same kit around the same time - would you mind posting a picture of your truss rod nut? I can't get any of my allen keys to grab it, and I can feel what seems like thread if I use a very small key, so I'm worried my truss rod nut is missing... or that I'm doing something silly!

    Mine looks like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by flibblebob; 22-08-2021 at 04:48 PM.

  5. #14
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    They are normally 4mm or 5mm, but probably 4mm. Your nut looks very deeply burried, but there definitely is a nut in there. You may just need a longer key. Try using the long handle end of a hex key just to see if it fits in. You may need to get a hex key with two long ends. You can find them on eBay or Amazon, often labelled for acoustic guitars that have a body-end truss rod adjustment that has the nut inset a long way from the soundhole.

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    They are normally 4mm or 5mm, but probably 4mm. Your nut looks very deeply burried, but there definitely is a nut in there. You may just need a longer key. Try using the long handle end of a hex key just to see if it fits in. You may need to get a hex key with two long ends. You can find them on eBay or Amazon, often labelled for acoustic guitars that have a body-end truss rod adjustment that has the nut inset a long way from the soundhole.
    Thanks Simon, that's very helpful to know! Update is that I'm now thinking that I need either 4.5 mm or 3/16 in, because even though I can get to the nut, 4 mm seems too small and 5 mm too large; I don't have either of those to hand, so I'm going to grab one and have a go.

  7. #16
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Because they are Chinese kits, they will almost always be metric, so 4.5mm will probably be the one. I have come across one 4.5mm truss rod nut before, but they are rare.

    You should have got a suitable truss rod key with the kit. Have you checked the box for it?

  8. #17
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    Well, I feel sheepish! I’ve located the key from the box and then, confident that it was the right size, applied a bit more force… turns out that it was catching on the wood. Thanks for the advice, and helping me through my first newbie mistake!

  9. #18
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    No problem at all.

    I quite recently thought a US Strat I was setting up was somehow missing its truss rod nut, as I couldn't get any of the normal sized hex keys to fit in. It was one of those with a rosewood plug in the rout with small hole in it so you can't see the truss rod nut properly. Turns out that they need a 3mm key, not 4mm or 5mm, which is why nothing fitted. So it can happen to us all!

    The important thing to do is ask, rather than give up or try something that risks damaging the guitar.

  10. #19
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    The important thing to do is ask, rather than give up or try something that risks damaging the guitar.
    Yes, at least your first inclination wasn't to reach for the hammer!!!

    Glad you got it sorted btw.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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