Heyo, that looks right. Generally on a tele the end of the bridge is in line with the control cover, or only slightly behind, but your saddles look okay and scale length seems correct.
25.5” scale, and you look to be at 25.25” ATM. If the bridge plate can move back a bit, by about 1/4”, then I’d do it. You don’t want the intonation springs squashed up too tightly on the bass strings side or the saddle screws sitting on the bridge mounting screws. With a standard Tele scratchplate, you’re also in danger of the bridge plate intruding on the scratchplate, instead of leaving the normal 2-3mm gap. But if you are making your own scratchplate, or happy to mod a bought one, then it doesn’t really matter as you can adjust to suit.
So this is project "Balmain". I was looking lovingly into my wife's eyes, then I zoned/zoomed out and was suddenly inspired...
A milky greenish, semi-opaque finish, with gold trimmings. A TL style seemed appropriate, but before purchasing the kit, I needed to do some R&D.
Getting the colour right was one problem, but the depth required for the milky finish was going to be interesting. I happened across some furniture projects that were using milk paint to get a vintage look, So I sourced some from a place over east, and tried a couple of options.
The test was on paulownia (a lot more open grain than basswood). One side was a base of the milk paint, then clear poly brew over the top. The other side (in the photo) was the milk paint into the poly brew.
The results were enough for me to decide this was the right stuff for the project. I'll make some adjustments in the colour mix, and will probably put down a thin base coat that is a whiter mix, then start adding depth every 5 to 10 poly/paint layers, adjusting the colour mix slightly between each batch.
Last edited by dozymuppet; 08-08-2021 at 10:06 AM.
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