That's not great. You should definitely put that in the feedback section if you haven't already. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...splay.php?f=49Originally Posted by millarde
That's not great. You should definitely put that in the feedback section if you haven't already. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...splay.php?f=49
Hi Millarde,
can you post a picture from the top and underside?
If you do need to rebate a bit more a forstner dill bit (25 - 30 mm) may be helpful!
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
I'm not sure a Forstner bit is the best way to go here. You'd want one the same size as the existing hole so it didn't wander around (with no wood in the middle for the central point to dig into) unless you used a drill press, and the small spurs on the outside of the drill would make a thinner, weaker area around the circumference of the hole.
I'd simply get new pots with longer shafts. A pot upgrade isn't a bad thing, so you might as well do it now. Guitar pots normally come in three threaded section shaft lengths, short (6mm), medium (9.5mm) and tall (18mm) (values given for CTS pots but other makes are almost identical). Short are meant for scratchplate mounting, medium for most rear cavity mountings and longfor rear cavity mounting with a very thick top.
I'd measure the top depth to see whether a medium or a tall shaft would be the best fit. Tall will be excessively tall, so you'll need to adjust the amount of thread poking out of the top with a nut and washer on the shaft on the inside (so make sure any tall shaft pots come with two nuts and two washers).
Knobs come in either 18 or 24 spline versions (I have found sone Strat-type knobs that are a universal fit and they are very good) so you need to get knobs that fit the pot shafts. CTS and Bourns pots are normally 24-spline and Alpha pots 18-spline (kit pots will be 18-spline), but they all make 'the other type', it's just finding stockists with supplies.
No big deal about the pot shafts. I have a Dremel grinder bit that I use to relieve a bit from the underside. Just feels like work I shouldn't really need to do.
A pickup ring question: both rings have a slight slant to them. It's not immediately obvious if it should tilt towards neck or not. In the one good post y'all shared about another XB-1, the guy replaced them with flat rings, so no data for me.
ALSO, feels like a huge mess: The wiring diagram shows pickup hot to switch and ground to volume pot. While that seems normal, the switch cavity and volume pot cavity are almost 5" away from each other. Am I really supposed to spit the wire cover, untangle the braided ground/shield and run it bare to a different cavity? Seems like a waste of it's shielding power as well as an operation that is likely to end in failure (ime, the braid isn't going to play nice when I try to split away 7" worth). Here's the provided diagram: https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...2H1v3_2014.pdf
I'm a bit leery about breaking the star ground, but grounding the pups to the switch (and switch to pot) would be much easier and I'd get the shielding benefit from the pup wire.
Re: pickup rings, you’re correct that they want to slope towards the neck. Also the highest one is for the bridge pickup and lower for the neck.
Re: ground wires, you can use separate single conductor wire to connect the pot and switch casings and connect the pickup grounds to whichever is easiest. Which is what I think you were proposing anyway.
Sorry for brevity of reply. I’m on my phone atm and typing is a pita 😊.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Thanks all, various challenges sorted. It's nearing completion: https://kerfguitars.com/guitars/on-the-bench
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