Well it's all done:
I had another go over the frets with up to 1500 sandpaper and I think it all plays very nicely.
The only trouble I've had is the highest couple of strings go out of tune a bit when I do bends, but I think I might not have wound enough string around the post to get it to stick.
+1.
Great Job. Very nice.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"
Looks good!
Could also be the nut slots. May need adjustment with a nut file, or possibly just some lubrication. You can use a specialised product like Big Bends Nut Sauce (basically silicone) or graphite from a pencil. I've even heard of people using Chapstik (lip balm).The only trouble I've had is the highest couple of strings go out of tune a bit when I do bends, but I think I might not have wound enough string around the post to get it to stick.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Yay, first build done and looking good!
You only need 2-3 turns around the tuning posts to hold the strings.
You can also run P1500 or P2000 grit paper through the slots to remove roughness. You should be able to fold 1500 grit paper in half and get it in a top E slot, provided the paper backing itself isn’t too thick (different brands vary).
Glad to hear it is all coming together. If you find it isn't the "string winding" at the next change of strings, also remember the high strings don't just go through the nut, but also thought the string trees, so it might be worth a quick look at them to make sure they aren't causing any hang ups as well.
Super glad to hear it is playing nicely though, I hope it supports you for many years to come.
I mostly play acoustic and have never had this problem, so my one time around the post was probably not enough.
The strings are going flat, and I literally saw the excess that I cut off slip out of the hole, so I think that's the problem. I'll find out next time I guess.
I'd say you're on to it.. also sounds like your next project will be an acoustic... That's a step up.
One turn is far too few, even on an acoustic. I'm really surprised you haven't had had problems (unless it's a nylon string guitar).
Pull the string through the hole and measure about two tuners distance /4-5cm of string past it. I put a 90° kink in it, pull it back to the post with the string end upwards, hold that end whilst pulling the string back sharply to get a good kink in the neck length side it as it comes out of the hole, wind it round once manually and then wind it on. Never had any string slippage. Some people like to do locking or jamming turns and stuff, but I don't see any benefit and it makes it harder to change strings quickly.
The string post relies on its curved shape to allow the string tension to push the string upwards so that the end through the hole is pressed against the top of the hole by the string wraps beneath it. Too few turns, and the string just wraps around the middle of the post without the extra grip of the string being pushed against the top of the hole.
The downside of needing several turns is that when you use there trem, the string tension is reduced significantly and the wound strings especially can move a bit relative to one another, resulting in a slightly different string tension when the trem is released, and so the string goes out of tune until any slack in the windings is taken up again whilst playing. A smooth, well-cut nut will minimise this as the string will slide easily through the nut slot without any tendency to snag. But if you do use the trem a lot and find problems, then swapping to locking tuners can help, as you shouldn't ever have a full turn of string around the post before it's in tune, so there's no string against string interaction/friction.
If you don't have a trem or don't really use it, then they just make string changing quicker.
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