That sort of buzz is often down to simply having the output jack connections crossed over, but can also be down to a missing (or very bad) ground connection somewhere in the wiring.
That sort of buzz is often down to simply having the output jack connections crossed over, but can also be down to a missing (or very bad) ground connection somewhere in the wiring.
If nothing is obvious, then take some pictures of the wiring and we'll see if we can spot anything wrong.
My multimeter is giving me a connection where there shouldn't be one on the posts of the switch. I'll try to track down where it has gone wrong.
Actually I just realised that a connection across those posts is expected. The two pickups are grounded together, so I'm effectively measuring resistance across two of the pickups, which apparently is about 12k.
So I'm back to a mystery buzz with no idea about where it's coming from.
Have you tried moving your guitar and amp to a different location in the house?Originally Posted by jarro_2783
Turns out that having the strings on and getting the bridge flat makes a big difference to where the saddle sits, so I think the neck angle is fine. Getting the nut down has made a huge difference to the first few frets and it's only about 15 cents out, which is about as much as my Maton, so that's a win.
The kit strings sure are rubbish, the top two have broken already. I'll put the good strings on and keep working on the final setup.
I think the cheap amp I have is buzzy, so that won't help either. I'll try plugging it in somewhere else before I get too concerned.
I'm getting close to done, I noticed that the string tee posts are different sizes, is this wrong?
The tuning pegs go in at the same height, so it seems strange that they are different.
Also how is the shielding on this? I wasn't sure how much I needed to cover and whether a few gaps is ok
The string trees are installed in a staggered manner, with the B/E string tree set forward of the D/G string tree (if you actually need to install that one). The B/E string tree uses the taller of the two posts. The D/G string tree being further back, needs to be lower to achieve the same string angle over the nut. The B/E string tree is almost always needed, but I'd wait and see if you need to fit the D/G one. It's better not to fit string trees if you can avoid it as they are another source of friction which can affect tuning stability. It mainly depends on the height between the face of the headstock and the bottom of the nut slot - the bigger the difference, the less likely you'll need a D/G string tree.
But it also depends on how you string up the tuners,how many turns you put on them and so how low the string leaves the post. The lower it leaves the larger the break angle over the nut.
If the D or G strings sound a bit weak or buzz when unfretted, then fit the string tree.
The shielding looks OK so far, but a) it needs connecting to ground and b) the underside of the scratchplate also needs covering in foil to create a lid on the cavity. But it in doubt, add another bit of foil over any holes.
The grounded pots will ground the foil on the underside of the scratchplate (there's normally a small bit by the pots, but you want all the cavity covered). You'd normally run the foil up over the edge of the cavity so that it comes into contact with the foil on the underside of the scratchplate to ground it. With a metal control plate, you can just bring the foil up over the sides under that, making sure that you run some out to the screw hole positions so the two copper surfaces are held together firmly. But I prefer to bring the copper up all around the cavity, to guarantee a good tight fit of the 'lid' over the cavity.
Um, are you sure on this Simon: "The B/E string tree uses the taller of the two posts. The D/G string tree being further back, needs to be lower to achieve the same string angle over the nut." That's going to give you a much more extreme break angle for the D/G strings.
First (proper) build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8546
Second build: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ad.php?t=10229
I am half-correct. D'oh! (Thanks, Drew).
The D/G tree goes further forward than the B/E tree, not the other way around (like wot I wrote).
Typically on a Fender, the B/E is just behind the location of the A tuner, the D/G is just in front. The kit headstocks tend to have a longer distance between the nut and the first tuner than a standard Fender, so the trees can come forward a little bit from a practical sense, but visually, they are best left looking like a standard Fender
A quick sketch (absolutely not to scale) shows why the furthest forward tree has the tallest post in order to get the string break angles similar
Most string tree posts have less of a comparative height difference than your kit posts. Your small one is about 1/2 the height of the tall one, whereas the small one is typically around 2/3 the height, so you may want to space the posts slightly further apart than I've suggested. I'd start with locating the B/E string tree, and then experiment (with the D/G strings slackened off a bit) for the position of the other string tree so that the string angles to the nut are similar.
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