No, YOU have too many unfinished projects...

[Bakersdozen]

From my experience. I'd start with a small batch (enough for one full liberal coat) of the blo recipe you listed. Put that on and let it soak in for a good 15mins, then wipe off. You'll find that the oil keeps rising, so keep coming back to it and wipe again until you don't see it rise anymore. Then let that cure fully. After that I'd just carry on with homebrew wipe on poly for the remainder coats. This would be the fastest way as once that first coat of blo has soaked in, the subsequent layers do take a while to cure, which is why I'd then just take the blo out if the equation.

YMMV as different climates play a big part, so maybe try it on scrap first to get the vibe of the thing.

[McCreed]

From my experience. I'd start with a small batch (enough for one full liberal coat) of the blo recipe you listed. Put that on and let it soak in for a good 15mins, then wipe off. You'll find that the oil keeps rising, so keep coming back to it and wipe again until you don't see it rise anymore. Then let that cure fully. After that I'd just carry on with homebrew wipe on poly for the remainder coats. This would be the fastest way as once that first coat of blo has soaked in, the subsequent layers do take a while to cure, which is why I'd then just take the blo out if the equation.

YMMV as different climates play a big part, so maybe try it on scrap first to get the vibe of the thing.

What's the purpose of having the BLO in the equation at all if you're just going over it with poly anyway?
If it's about tint or colour, that can easily be accomplished by tinting the poly.

[Bakersdozen]

What's the purpose of having the BLO in the equation at all if you're just going over it with poly anyway?
If it's about tint or colour, that can easily be accomplished by tinting the poly.

The Blo soaks into the wood and gives it a beautiful feel and look. Helps to seal and protect. Colour is a bonus if that's the look your going for. If you have it on hand, far easier than tinting poly. You can keep building it, just takes patience. I was just offering a solution for speedier curing times is all. At the point it stops soaking in - that's when the delay in curing starts..

[McCreed]

The Blo soaks into the wood and gives it a beautiful feel and look. Helps to seal and protect. Colour is a bonus if that's the look your going for. If you have it on hand, far easier than tinting poly. You can keep building it, just takes patience. I was just offering a solution for speedier curing times is all. At the point it stops soaking in - that's when the delay in curing starts..

Ah, I see. Was I wrong that you're the one that had success with DIY Tru Oil, or was it another member?

[Bakersdozen]

Ah, I see. Was I wrong that you're the one that had success with DIY Tru Oil, or was it another member?

Quite possibly - I've had luck with both methods

[dozymuppet]

Haven't given up on the homebrew idea yet (thanks BD for the insight and tips), but I did grab some Livos Kunos oil to try out after I saw the results a bloke in Tassie was having. It's not for a gloss finish, but should be good for a raw look. Apparently Livos Bivos oil wax is good for the gloss finish. I'll try to locate some of that too. In the meantime I grabbed a sample pot of Whittle's Evolution Hardwax Oil to try out.

So many options...

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[dozymuppet]

Went with a kunos/bivos combo. It said not to use over stain, but I was feeling rebellious.

Semi mock up, with TOM and tailpiece in place.

[Bakersdozen]

Ohh baby, that's looking a treat! Did the stain move at all using your new oil/wax combo? Spirit or water based stain? I'm keen to hear a little more about your finish application regimin. And the curing times etc. Quantities used.

[Trevor Davies]

That is a lovely piece of timber!

[dozymuppet]

Ohh baby, that's looking a treat! Did the stain move at all using your new oil/wax combo? Spirit or water based stain? I'm keen to hear a little more about your finish application regimin. And the curing times etc. Quantities used.

There’s a bit of TM grain filler on top, and the bottom is a diluted FW Japan black stain, spirit based. The FW only moved a bit, and I was careful not to drag the cloth over the top join too much when oiling the bottom.

The application was two relatively lean and thin coats of the kunos, with a bit of t shirt cloth. I left it a day between coats, but it probably only needs a couple of hours. After letting each coat sit for 20 minutes, I gave it a bit of a buff with a dry bit of shirt. Then let it cut for four weeks…

Then two lean coats of the bivos, roughly the same process, but a bit more buffing to get it up to a sheen. I let it cure for at least a week from there, but on unstained wood it’s pretty much good to go at that point.