No, YOU have too many unfinished projects...

[McCreed]

Sorry in advance for the hijack, Dozy...

Many manage just fine with either the right blade on a table saw /circular saw, or failing that, a jointing plane.

Rabbit, can you elaborate on "right blade" please? I have a table saw.

I have spent a great deal of time teaching myself how to joint manually. It’s a skill that comes in very handy for any number of luthiery/carpentry/cabinetmaking tasks.

Frankie, by manually I presume you're talking about using a hand plane? (and probably a really high quality one)
Do you set up a jig especially for this job?

Thanks guys!

[FrankenWashie]

Sorry in advance for the hijack, Dozy...

Frankie, by manually I presume you're talking about using a hand plane? (and probably a really high quality one)
Do you set up a jig especially for this job?

Thanks guys!

Yes, a Stanley number 6, or a similar sized one. I have an equivalent “Groz” brand one. I think the biggest part of it is not necessarily the expense or quality of the plane but the adjustment and set up. If you’ve got a good stable flat sole, and a quality iron that takes and holds a good edge, you’re well on the way. If you can find one second hand a number 7 Stanley or equivalent are great but they all seem rather $$$$$ even on fleaBay.
If you have the finances, it’s great to have expensive planes but it means you have to be even more vigilant about maintenance, iron care and sharpening etc.

I don’t tend to joint wide boards so much, it’s mainly the edges for body blanks or tops.
a good shooting board, a known straight edge and patience is about all I use. For thinner tops I’ll clamp the piece between two squared blocks the same length to give it some stability while I work on them.

[Simon Barden]

You can of course sand the base of any plane flat with sandpaper stuck to a pane of flat glass.

I like Rex Kruger's channel on YouTube for ways of upgrading the performance of cheaper tools. I certainly got my old Stanley No.4 into a decent shape after watching some of his videos.

Here's his playlist on planes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L07...SUAtmy8Cdua7Td

[McCreed]

Thanks FW & SB!

[Rabbit]

Rabbit, can you elaborate on "right blade" please? I have a table saw.

Using the appropriate blade for the material. In some cases, such as ripping blades such as 24 tooth or coarser blade on a 10 inch/254mm, there are so called "glueline" blades intended to give a better surface for a clean glue line. I haven't seen finer blades with a glueline designation. Probably more crucially you need a sharp blade and a smooth, uninterrupted feed.

Even though we have a jointer at the shed, and he prefers to use the big boys toys, the other guy that makes guitars has a bit of a boner for Les Pauls.For match booked tops he prefers to use a plane and a shooting board.

[McCreed]

Thanks Rabbit.
I'm thinking a plane and shooting board is the way I'll go. I'll need to buy a decent plane, and also make the shooting board (which I only learnt about today - thanks!!!).

Since I'll likely be starting with DAR pine for my first scratch body, it should only require a tiny bit of clean up.

Cheers guys!

(now back to Dozy's thread!)

[dave.king1]

You can of course sand the base of any plane flat with sandpaper stuck to a pane of flat glass.

Many a cylinder head was done that way in the back yard using plate glass back in the day

[FrankenWashie]

In the spirit of this thread, did someone say Jim Root inspired Baritone Jazzmaster?





No? Must have been Ig0r


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[Simon Barden]

did someone say Jim Root inspired Baritone Jazzmaster?


No? Must have been Ig0r

No. Igor would have said "Jim Root inthpired Baritone Jathmaster, mathter".

[FrankenWashie]

No. Igor would have said "Jim Root inthpired Baritone Jathmaster, mathter".

True, but he tends to dial down the lisp in the lab when we have no company mainly for safety’s sake. Or thafety’s thake, if you will.


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