No, YOU have too many unfinished projects...

[FrankenWashie]

I vote for bushings. I've retrofitted a few of my previous builds, and used them on the last couple of newer builds. I don't think I'll ever go back to plates again.

They even make a difference in the feel of a standard neck pocket IMO. A neck plate can add 1.5-2mm, and that can be a lot in this game.

Yeah 100% with you on that McC. It’s a planned renovation on a couple of my prior builds, Both the Korean Deluxe and the TLTH will be getting a round off, neck heel re-shape, Stainless Steel anchors and a top to bottom taper.

[dozymuppet]

Perhaps not a lot of obvious progress, but finessed contours, drilled post holes, drilled wire access, and slightly angled the neck pocket for TOM.





Thought I had everything I needed, but I need some short neck screws (whether I go with curved plate or bushings).

[Bakersdozen]

Looks good! Is cutting down a set an option? Dremel, sander, hacksaw?

[dozymuppet]

Probably, but I don't want to ;P

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[dozymuppet]

Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.

[ross.pearson]

Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.

Interested to see how that goes. Proper finishing has been the biggest PITA for me.

[McCreed]

Think I'm going to mix up some homebrew tru-oil this weekend.

Not sure if I'll do boiled linseed or pure tung oil yet, but at the moment am thinking 60/30/10, being oil/poly/white spirit.

I think it's Bakersdozen that has a successful recipe for DIY Tru Oil, so maybe he'll weigh in.

FWIW, I experimented with it a few years ago and started with the mixing ratio I'd commonly seen in forums of equal parts BLO, Poly, Turps. For whatever reason it just didn't work for me. Compared to the genuine Tru Oil (which I A/B'ed it with) it took longer to set, and the build-up took longer also.

It was at that point I played around with variations in the ratios, but still no joy. IIRC, Bakersdozen uses/used a different kind of BLO than I did, so maybe that was the key. Dunno.
This was around the time I started using a spray gun for all my finishes, so I never revisited the homebrew TO thing. Hopefully you have better success.

Also, hopefully I have correctly named Bakersdozen and not dropped him into something he knows nothing about!

EDIT:
After having a quick look around, I thought it worth mentioning that Pure Tung Oil (no added driers) takes a long time "dry", but then again so does BLO.

[dozymuppet]

Thanks McCreed. Yep, the drying time is what I'm mostly worried about. I've had a look around for things like japan driers, but so far not finding much easily accessible.

The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.

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[dozymuppet]

I'm also considering trying this new product: https://www.timbecon.com.au/walrus-oil-furniture-finish

"It’s made of polymerising Safflower oil, tung oil, hemp seed oil with a hint of lime for freshness."

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[McCreed]

The main reason I'm even bothering with the idea is the relative difficulty sourcing Tru oil at the moment.

I didn't realise there was a shortage, but I guess there's not much that hasn't been impacted by the pandemic.

My only concern about the Walrus Oil would be that it is described as a "penetrating oil" rather than a "drying oil" despite using the the word polymerising. I find their information confusing.
A true penetrating oil (eg: pure tung oil) will not give the same finish as ones that are membrane finishes (eg: polyurethanes).