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Thread: Muddy neck humbucker??? Try a BASS CUT circuit!

  1. #11
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Sourcing 1m reverse audio pots takes me back...to 2009 when I last bought some. I ultimately got a couple from G&L directly. At the time they were advertising that all their pots were CTS...but it turns out that even G&L could not get CTS to supply them. The ones they sent me were a brand I'd never heard of, as was the original in my bass. Since I wanted a pot with a push-pull switch, I ultimately "made" one by destroying one of the [CME?] pots G&L sent me to get the wafer. I swapped the wafer with the one in a CTS pot with a switch, and to my surprise and relief it worked fine.

    Not much has changed in the ensuing 12 years. I could find a couple couple alphas and a TT from Mauser (all 16mm). I could get them directly from G&L for 2-3x the cost of getting them from Mauser. Something new was that I could get a Bourns with a DPDT switch from Digikey if I was willing to wait at 24 weeks. The store in Thailand is definitely progress ;-)

    The weirdest thing is that it is relatively easy to get a reverse audio 3M pot...which I guess is used in some fender amps. If my Franken-pot idea had not worked, I probably would have used one of those with a resister across the outer lugs to get it to approximate 1M.

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    ...but it turns out that even G&L could not get CTS to supply them. The ones they sent me were a brand I'd never heard of, as was the original in my bass.
    The stock pots in my G&L Tribute S-500 were made by and branded Mighty Mite (that continues to be one of my real "seller's remorse" guitars btw). They were a bit weird in that only half of the casing was metal. The rest of it was ABS plastic.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #13
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    They were a bit weird in that only half of the casing was metal. The rest of it was ABS plastic.
    What a place to cut corners! That's got to add just pennies to their bottom line...only at the expense of the reputations of both G&L and Mighty Mite.

    I don't have buyer's remorse about my USA ASAT bass. I fell in love with it the first time I played it, and I got a good deal on it used. But the electronics were definitely not the draw. I had to replace a pickup because one of the coils stopped working (I am told this is not unusual because the wire is so thin). Although when I bought it the G&L website advertised that the pots were all CTS, none of mine were. Can't read the logo, but they look like ALPS and are stamped "Made in Japan." I put C&K switches in to replace the ALCO switches it came with. The wiring looked like a colorful bird's nest. Still does, actually. That I did not really improve. I also installed a battery box so I would not have to remove the entire control cover every time I had to change the battery... Great playing bass and the MFD pups make an incredibly broad spectrum of sounds either passive or active...And when I bought it the electronics worked fine. But the guts are not exactly "boutique" even on the USA made ones.

  4. #14
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    If anything, ALPS are better than CTS. Their faders are used in most of the big name mixing consoles.

  5. #15
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    This is what the Mighty Mite pots look like:
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    Funny thing is, they're not available on the Mighty Mite website. Only through other sellers.

    I don't have buyer's remorse about my USA ASAT bass.
    Yeah, me neither. I kick myself for selling it . And the MFD pickups do sound good! (they're worth a whole other thread)
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  6. #16
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    If anything, ALPS are better than CTS. Their faders are used in most of the big name mixing consoles.
    Perhaps, but the ones in my bass were corroded and dirty. They look like they have an ALPS housing, but I can't be sure. It could well be that their grunginess had less to do with the mfg than the previous owner.

    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    This is what the Mighty Mite pots look like:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Funny thing is, they're not available on the Mighty Mite website. Only through other sellers.
    In keeping with my theme of being wrong about everything, those may not be too bad. Those are sealed pots...which might actually keep the dirt out and the lube in.

    Don't know about the Mighty Mite site, but you can still get the MM branded ones on Amazon. I think those are actually TOCOS pots (a Japanese company)...they should actually be pretty good. They seem to sell for about the same price as Bourns or CTS.

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    In keeping with my theme of being wrong about everything, those may not be too bad. Those are sealed pots...which might actually keep the dirt out and the lube in.
    LOL! Yes they are sealed, but I still ended up replacing the 250k one in my S-500 in less than a year of owning it. It was noisy, and IIRC, there was no way to clean the wiper with contact cleaner.

    I still have it (for some reason???), maybe I'll take another look at it and see what's what.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #18
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Noisy pots can be an indication of DC present on the input of a valve amp. There is no DC blocking cap on the input circuit on almost every valve amp (despite DC blocking caps being common between preamp valve stages), but the first preamp valve can go slightly faulty and start putting some DC on the circuit. This can make pots seem like they are dirty, when you are hearing sudden changes in DC that act like noise spikes.

    Yes, it can be the pot, but it might not be. First check if there’s any DC voltage on the end of a cable plugged into the amp. Anything more than a couple of millivolts and you could try swapping round the first valve with another of the same type. A buffered effects pedal between the amp and guitar is another quick way to check for DC issues, as the pedal will definitely have DC blocking caps, so any noisy volume or tone pots will be down to the pot itself.

    Of course you may have both issues!

  9. #19
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    That's good to know, and I'll put that in my "memory bank".

    However, in my case it was through either an analogue amp sim or a solid state amp (Roland Blues Cube) and at the time I had a dedicated buffer as well.

    Of course not knowing then what you stated above, I just assumed "bad pot". I changed it and the problem was solved!

    Which reminds of a story from back in the 70's when I had a different experience involving "bad pot"...
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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