Yes, the outer braid can either be used as a ground path, and connected at both ends e.g. from pot back to pot back, or it can be used simply as a shield and grounded at one end only. Whilst it generally doesn't matter on a guitar, it's not a good idea in principle to create a closed loop of ground connections as it can be a bit noisier, and with longer runs 'ground loops' can pick up a lot of noise due to divergent ground paths with different resistances.
For the pots, I'd think about getting some better quality replacement ones, either CTS, Bourns or Alpha. The volume pots should definitely be audio/log taper, and whilst tone can be audio(A) or linear(B), I much prefer audio/log taper for tone as well as the control action is more spread out and not bunched-up near the bottom end of the pot's rotation. You'll want pots with medium length shafts.
Whilst you can fit everything through a pickup hole, which is a lot easier than fitting the harness through an F-hole, it's still not the easiest job to replace a pot, so I'd fit good quality ones to start with. I'd go for full-sized pots rather than mini ones as well; definitely easier to solder to the back of a large pot than a small one.
If you stick with the kit pots, then my choice would be to use the two (A) pots for the pickup volumes and the (B) pots for the master volume and tone. I doubt I'd ever use the master volume, and there's no difference between A and B types when turned up fully. I normally don't touch the tone knob either, so whilst I pick the tone controls for what I think is best controllability, I rarely use them!
Never used DT, and being in the UK never will, but I doubt it will get darker on its own. I know from reading on here that the intensifier coat (if you have one) will deepen the colour, but I'd definitely try and get the finish nearer your intended colour before applying that.
Thanks again Simon, you're a fount of knowledge. Especially about the A & B pots; haven't come across a 'Master Volume' before (must be a Gretsch thing). I will use the kit pots as I haven't had a problem with them so far (4 PB builds). As regards the colour, I had assumed that one box of DT stain would cover a project but obviously not. Having waxed it I'll live with the paler colour, as the grain showing thru looks quite good. As an aside, can you tell me how to get my previous Pit Bull builds itemised at the bottom of my posts like yours? Cheers.
One DT kit might do a Tele or a Strat, but a big hollow body like your kit probably has double the surface area (at least) of one of those, so probably two body kits minimum.
For the build links, it's easier to do on a computer than a tablet or phone. Go to 'settings' (very top line of the main forum banner,) then 'edit signature'.
Easiest to have two tabs open, one for the signature edit and one for finding your builds to link to. When you've found the build page, copy the web address then insert it into the signature. Easiest to use the 'link' button in the edit panel, copy the web link into the dialogue box and you'll get a link that looks like this:
Use the 'preview signature' button to check it's showing what you want.
Because the forum software automatically displays the web links as active, you'll need to go and 'quote' this post so you can see just what bit of the link I've edited if you want to check what I did.
There's a maximum number of characters to your signature, (or there used to be), but it will tell you if you've exceeded it. You can get a reasonable number of links in it.
Did a bit of soldering yesterday and most of the connections completed with just a few grounds remaining to be done. Should be interesting connecting the ground to bridge post! Managed to burn my left forefinger - twice - which proves my iron is hot even though it takes me eons to actually get the damn solder to melt! Looks so simple on Youtube and even though I replaced my 25W with a 40W some kits ago, it still doesn't flow. My old man usedd to use flux - maybe that's the answer! Onwards and upwards.
What solder are you using? Leaded or lead-free? And does it have a flux core?
If you use extra flux, it needs to be of a type compatible with the solder you're using. I always use the solder with a flux core, both leaded and lead-free. Plumbers flux is too aggressive (I've been told).
Completed soldering today - much better after cleaning the iron tip (using lead-free flux core solder). Did my 'tube insertions' then realised the 3-way sw and the jack wouldn't fit the tubing, so reverted to the old 'string with washer tied' ready to position the jack. Will see how I go with the 3-way (bit trickier). Still hoping to be able to insert the bridge volume to bridge post ground wire post-tube insertions.
Another productive day managing to get all the wiring inserted and pots screwed in place. Old trick with the jack and string/washer did the job and yes I did have a problem getting the 3-way sw inserted (had to remove the inner nut to allow enough thread to poke thru the top) and a few more cuts and scrapes to the hands. Then the miracle of the ground to bridge post sight unseen (absolute fluke I think). So it's all wired up and just hoping it all works eventually! Will let it lie for a day or two whilst I get a few more bits of myself removed courtesy of carcinomas - speaking of which where is the bloody sun? We're drowning!
Tried to get my builds to display as per Simon's instructions, but clicking on the 'link' in the Preview section simply says 'No Page Found' presumably because I've replaced the actual link with my Build #1 eg. Must have missed something important.
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