Hi from Wellington, NZ

[Digby]

Hey all

My 14 y.o. son and I have just received our TL-1 kit. We're both high on enthusiasm and low on experience. Keen to get going.

This forum has so much good info! And we are a bit confused about a couple of things that I'm hoping we can get some answers to before we go any further.

1. The PDF guide says the neck likely comes with a slightly convex bow, and there's no need to adjust the truss rod now. That seems to be the case with our neck. Yet other advice on the forum suggests the neck should be completely straight before we do the fret levelling. So we are confused as to whether we should try to straighten it or not. We are tempted to go with what the guide says and leave it as is, but it would be good to hear what the experts say here.

2. For the TL-1, should we drill the holes for the components before we start painting, or after it's done? Does it matter?

Any advice appreciated!

Cheers

Digby and Will

[FrankenWashie]

KiaOra! Welcome to the forum!

1. You will need to get the neck straight before you go about your fret levelling. You need to get or make a notched straight edge that will allow you to gauge the straightness of the board without resting over the frets. From there you can get the frets levelled.

2. This is a matter of much conjecture, many do all of the woody working bits and grillage before colour and finish, some do it after.
I've done it both ways and I've no real preference, though some prefer to get the thing set up and playing right before they go through the drama of paint or stain etc.
Its really up to you, if you don't fancy the idea of trying to drill in a finished high gloss painted body, then get it done up front beforehand.

[Simon Barden]

Hi and welcome.

Best to start a build diary and ask technical questions there as that section gets more attention.

But...

1) Yes, for fret levelling you want the fretboard as flat as it can be. But you may not need to level the frets unless they are all different heights. But until you get the fretboard level, you won't be able to check this. This is where you really need a notched straight edge (the notches fit over the frets so the straight edge sits directly on the board). You can make your own, but they don't cost too much to buy. And one is always useful for checking other guitars. You'll almost certainly need to give the frets a polish, but you may not need to level the frets. It's something that can happily wait until the guitar is assembled and you see how well it plays. Unless there are definite high or low frets, you may find that a fret level only improves things by a very small amount.

2) It's done happily both ways. I leave small holes until last as it makes wet sanding easier. Water will get in the holes (unless you fill them with wax or similar) and can swell the wood and split the finish.

What you must do is ignore the guide for setting the bridge position where it says set the saddles
In the mid position for measuring the scale length. Set the saddles almost all the way forwards, as they will only come backwards from the scale length position when intonated.

[Digby]

Thanks for the replies! I've just ordered a notched straight edge. And will likely do the drill beforehand.

Simon - thanks for the tip on the saddles. That's really helpful.

Cheers