Getting ready to put in the posts for the bridge and tailpiece on my double neck SG style, and I see that there are different posts, 2 of each. The tailpiece post, the screw is thicker on on two of them, and the bridge posts...two have the notched dial on the screw and two do not.
How are they supposed to be configured? Do same go with same? Do specific ones go with the 12 string side and another the 6? Do you use one of each on each neck? I have seen pics where the notched dial post on the bridge goes on the low e string side, and the the non-notched dial post on the high e side. If that is the case, then does the thinner screw post on the tailpiece go on the notched dial side?
I am sure there is a logical answer....out there somewhere.
I'm not familiar with the kit, but it looks like the bridge posts are two slightly different heights. Which means that the height of the two bridge bodies are likely to slightly different as well. If both posts fit into the holes in the bridges, then you'll probably find that one set sits pretty much flush with the top of the bridge body, and the other will be either be slightly proud or slightly sunk in comparison. Match up the posts that sit as flush as they can.
The 12-string and 6-string bridges will be sourced by the factory from different suppliers, hence the two styles of bridge post.
You should use the same type of post design on the same bridge. One style of posts is the older Gibson-style design where height adjustment is done by the knurled thumbwheel. The other is a more modern style where height adjustment is done buy using a screwdriver in the slotted posts. The latest Gibson bridges use a hex key socket in the top of the post for height adjustment.
If both post designs are the same height and both of the posts fit the bridge holes equally well, then make your own choice as to which goes where.
The height of the 'screw heads' on the stop tailpiece poles again varies because the bridges have come from different suppliers. I've bought loads of bridges and tailpieces in my time, and the tailpiece studs tend to come in either thicker and flatter, or thinner and rounder versions. If the gap in the slot between the screw head and base is the same on both types, then it really doesn't matter as to which tailpiece fits on what pair, But use the same type as a pair on a tailpiece. If the slot gap is different (but they are almost always the same), then see which tailpiece fits each slot better. You're best having them so that they fill the slot in a similar manner, not one sitting pretty tight in the slot and one quite lose.
Thanks Simon, makes total sense. Feel dumb that I didn't notice this myself.
I managed to match the bridges with the posts and the the tailpieces with the bridges. The notched wheel posts matched up with the 6 string bridge, the taller posts with 12.
Glad you got it sorted. If you are unsure, always ask a question. There are no genuine questions that are dumb. We’ve all been in the position of starting out and not knowing, and only move on by being told or reading a suitable article. And this wasn’t the sort of subject you’d fund in a book or a magazine, son asking is the only way.
It obviously doesn't help that the kit comes with mis-matched hardware. It’s not something that I’d have expected had known anything about until now. Practically, it all works, but aesthetically, they could have tried harder!
True. Sadly, the holes are drilled too close together so the bridge doesn't fit on the post holes. Again, during the mock build they sat fine without fully putting the posts in, which was a mistake on my part. Now trying to make adjustments to get it to fit.
I had that on my GSM-1, they were a good 3mm too close, and ended up filing the holes out in the bridge so they fitted. I’m not really happy with that as it’s so obvious but have yet to try out my possible solution as there are finish issues to address as well that require warmer weather to address, so it’s stayed in its case.
I noticed that Kluson sell offset conversion inserts for M8 to M4 posts, designed for replacing some old Japanese bridge that used a smaller spacing. You’ll also need a new bridge with the US-style small post holes, (rather than the larger post holes on most Asian-made bridges as supplied with the kits) with the knurled ring height adjustment. Normal M8 to M4 conversion posts have the smaller posts centralised, but these have them at one edge, so that by rotating them, you can adjust the spacing between the 4mm posts. As in theory this should allow for a total of 8mm of width adjustment, I should be able to find a rotation for the inserts that suit the bridge hole spacing. But rotating the adapter posts to anything but in a line between the centre of the old post holes will also move the bridge forwards or backwards, so it’s going to require some juggling to get a position that means I can still intonate the strings.
This may mean that the bridge also sits slightly offset, so I’ve got a bridge with unnotched saddles so I can notch them myself and get them to run down the neck properly.
It’s not a low-cost solution, and I’ve yet to see if it actually works well.
Well, i am going the simple route of filing the holes a bit bigger to make it sit and it has worked so far to get the 6 string bridge to sit. now I am trying to figure out neck angle that isn't sitting straight either.
I have learned that my dream of getting this kit, painting it and putting it together to play right away isn't going to happen. It's going to take some time to figure it out which has been frustrating but still, good. I am learning a lot about the intricacies of the instrument and how to make it play, and how to adjust even the guitars I have. I have been playing for 35 years and have never put thought into these things. I fear my retirement years are going to be spent trying to learn all the tricks of the trade.
Thanks, Simon for you your thoughtful insight into my problems!
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