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Thread: St. Vincent itch

  1. #21
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Progress. Body mass is under 1kg now...









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  2. #22
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Looking good Dozy!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #23
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    Aha! Ignore my reply on the other thread - makes sense now!

    Cunning. I never thought of doing it that way.

  4. #24
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Yep, it helps make the carving job a lot more accurate and efficient.

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  5. #25
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Reference if you're interested https://www.instagram.com/p/COVYuTSH...dium=copy_link

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  6. #26
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    All cavities routed, all holes drilled, and edges bevelled.





    Next step: Sanding (+ sourcing some hardware bits and pieces).

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  7. Liked by: OliSam

  8. #27
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looking good. How did you cut the switch slot?
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  9. #28
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    I drilled a series of small holes, then Stanley blade (Paulownia is soft) and a small file.

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  10. #29

  11. #30
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I posted a question about hardness of paulownia to a luthier's forum that is run by the Crystalac people. Someone called frets4vets.org posted this:

    Next time you do pawlonia, after staining use a penetrating resin like miwax wood hardener or even a coat of teak oil to help harden the fibers. That will make BT[*] and any other crystalac product work better on pawlonia
    Too late on my current build, but may be useful to this build. The Minwax product is fairly pricy, and is really toxit. You can't even use this stuff with latex gloves because it will dissolve them...which probably means that I would not have used it even if I had heard of it first.

    I know there are other products like "PC Petrifier" that are water-based and much less toxic...but maybe not as good at penetrating, and I am not sure it's suitable for clear finishes. Plus it does not work with some fillers...so lots of provisos.

    https://www.pcepoxy.com/products/woo.../pc-petrifier/

    This stuff is used (as is Minwax) by people who make "paper beads" and so I think it should finish clear, but would need to try it to know whether it's good for luthiers or to harden wood like paulownia.

    I have not used either of these products, but just putting it forward in the FWIW categories.

    I love the way Paulownia looks finished clear. Still working on getting it to be a bit more resistant to dings and nicks.



    *Brite Tone (Crystalac clear coat)

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