Greg's #4 - Scratch SG

[dozymuppet]

That's quite a clever setup.

What size is that router bit BTW? And where did you get it? (If you don't mind me asking - finding a relatively shallow 3/8" pattern bit in Aus doesn't seem to be that easy)

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[GregLane]

Hi DM
I had to get them the router from StewMac in the US. Look for "Ball Bearing Router Bits". I purchased the pair. The 1/2 one gives nice tight corners.
Not cheap but I couldn't get anything in Aus and I didn't fancy having double thickness templates when I wanted to progress slowly into the neck and pickup cavities.
Hope to do the PU cavities this week.

Greg

[WeirdBits]

Carbatec has a useful range of bits and accessories.

[GregLane]

Couldn’t find 1/2” cutting height ones at the time. Don’t know if they have them now.

[GregLane]

Been a bit slow with a cold I couldn't shake and cold wet days. Too cold for the garage/workshop. Must be getting old.

After proudly showing off my template above -- WHOOPS

Caused by nervous energy, inexperienced and then got a bit overconfident and lifted the router out before it stopped spinning.
No damage to the guitar that goodness.

I made a new template and then cut two spares out of MDF. Didn't even scratch one this time. hihi

[GregLane]

Next job is one of the scary ones - for me the learner anyway - drill the wiring channel down almost the full length of the SG to the electrics cavity without coming through the cap.

Spent may a sleepless night trying to work out how to keep the long drill bit on target.

I made this channel to stop the electric drill wandering about. I also added a block of wood in the neck cavity to stop the bit lifting as it went through. My 6mm bit was only going to be 3mm into the base of that cavity.

Ready to go

Despite multiple measuring and aligning with the iphone level I missed the target by about 5mm to the left I went towards the cap by about 7mm. The hole was supposed to come out mid-wall. I did give a sigh of relief when I saw the gouge in the cap. Luckily it is 7mm thick.

But all is well and the pickup wiring will not foul the switch.


I chose to drill to the arrow on the electric cavity. This meant I would have to drill a wiring hole from the bridge to the tunnel. I managed to locate the tunnel on the first try. The bridge earthing wire goes to the bridge cavity then to the tunnel as well. I am training a cockroach at the moment.

[GregLane]

I have been chipping away over the last couple of weeks but it has been a bit slow because of some cold days and Olympics.

I recut the neck shape but seemed to have forgotten to take some photos. I think the recut was a bit too nerve racking to think about taking photos. You can see the difference from the previous photos.

I then took to the guitar with the rasp as in the photo, 80 grit and a metal file to smooth it off. Turned out the be the easiest way after trying a number of other tools.

The photos below are taken after the first sand with 180 grit and a coat of turps to bring out the colour.

I am not going to stain it as like the pinky/red. I am going to try TruOil grain filler to see if it helps cut down on the number of coats of TruOil. Interested to know if anyone else has used the TruOil filler.

[McCreed]

That's a lovely looking piece of timber. I agree it's fine on its own with no stain.

Just curious, what are you proposing for a control cavity cover? It's quite I unique shape.

[dozymuppet]

I've used the truoil filler. From memory it was pretty good. I had the trifecta with walnut stain as well (look at my JBA-4M for reference).

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[Trevor Davies]

"I am going to try TruOil grain filler to see if it helps cut down on the number of coats of TruOil."

Have you thought about applying the first couple of truoil coats with a brush? Maybe then use wet and dry paper with tru-oil to grain fill.

And I love the colour and the grain.