600 is about the area where you'll start to have bonding issues. I usually won't go higher than 240 before next coats. (That is using two component West systems epoxy.)
I like your dedication in trying finishings.
600 is about the area where you'll start to have bonding issues. I usually won't go higher than 240 before next coats. (That is using two component West systems epoxy.)
I like your dedication in trying finishings.
They say P600, so it should be fine. My only thought is if the isopropyl is affecting it at all.
hmm, the grain filler version sanded nicely with 400. I'd suggest that. If you are still having adhesion issues on your test pieces, I'd suggest spraying (you can get it in spray can) plastic adhesion primer. It's used on raw plastic bumpers and trim to make paint stick to it.Cleanliness is the key. Make sure you clean the sanding dust from the solarrez of firstf. Alcohol works well and shouldn't effect cured polyester.
Rolf, yes, we use the West epoxy for our boats and this stuff is rock hard when it's cured. The Solarez stuff sands really easily and you can also scratch it easily as well, so I think with P240, you'd take off too much quickly. Just my impression.
Simon, the Isopropyl SHOULD in theory evaporite very quickly, but maybe it really is the culprit. I don't know. I tried to do everything by the book but I don't know..
Rabbit, the adhesion issue is between the different coats of the Solarez, amazingly, the FIRST coat between the wood and the Solarez, is rock solid. It worked itself into the wood and there is no way to get it off besides sanding the wood down. But the subsequent coats seem to be the problem. So maybe P600 really is too fine, or the Isopropyl alcohol is a problem, OR maybe I did something else wrong.
I don't know what I'm doing but I hope I will end up with a guitar
I got nothin'...
Except empathy... I know the pain of having a finish go horribly wrong...
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
LOL yeah, sh.....t happens
In the end, it's gonna be a nice guitar, otherwise it's not the end or something like that.
I'm pretty sure the error is me. So far, I have built like 5 guitars and whatever I did, the finishing process was big trouble every time. You know the joke the IT dudes laugh about, the PEBKAC? Yep.
I don't know what I'm doing but I hope I will end up with a guitar
The ICBIBL stuff isn’t polyester though as far as I can make out). It’s description says it gives a less bright tone to instruments than their UV polyester finish, so I’m assuming it’s sone other polymer.Originally Posted by Rabbit
And I’ve double checked and it does say 600 grit, which could be the even finer US grit rating as there’s no P in front.
Polyol acrylate from the safety data sheet. https://www.woodessence.com/Assets/P...ICBNL_MSDS.pdf
But I have no idea how that relates to polyurethane at all.
Last edited by Simon Barden; 03-05-2021 at 07:33 PM.
Yeah, they do have an UV reactive polyester as well, but it's not the "I can not believe..." stuff. It's called UV polyester resin or something. Pretty impossible to get here in Europe.
I don't know what I'm doing but I hope I will end up with a guitar
It doesn't, other than they are both plastics. The Solarrez stuff is essentially liquid perspex. Isopropanol should be ok on it, but anything less polar than that and you are looking at potentially dissolving it. Acetone would be the tipping point. IPA would also help with reducing static. That's more of an issue though when you are spraying.
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