yes, but, according to sources:Originally Posted by Simon Barden
yes, but, according to sources:
My understanding of Rics is growing all the time. Although made by CTS, Ric pots have special Ric part numbers on, not standard CTS ones. So whilst he may have had pots fitted that had the code that Ric say indicated 330k, in reality the actual pot value, if measured, would probably have been in the 460k-490k range.
Most pots have a ±20% tolerance, so 330k could be in theory be anywhere between 264k to 396k, though most pots do read very close to the nominal value. But even 396k is still a long way from the 490k that people have measured on the '330k' pots. Without having his actual bass to measure the values from, we'll never know.
Sounds like I will have to break boarder control, sneak onto a flight to 'merica and break into the rock'n'roll hall of fame with a multi metre ......
Ok, so I had orderd another Artec "Mudbucker" after the first one turned out to be completely out of spec and suspiciously dodgy. It came today, wrapped in bubble wrap, then alfoil, more bubble wrap, cloth, more foil, and finally foam. With that level of effort in packaging I was encouraged. What was under all that wrapping was a pickup that actually matched the picture in the add, and more importantly, has the correct impedance.. 30k not 1.2k! Again like the last one it only had two mags and not the 4 that I had seen on a dissection and "upgrade" post on another forum, but that's ok... I believe there are two models of the Artec sidewinder, so the mags may not be the same. Should sound "muddy", which is kinda the point. One more piece of the Cliffenbacker falls into place....
As the original has only two magnets, it should sound closer than the four-magnet version. DCR value sounds promising too. Onwards and upwards!
Well with another 2 weeks lock down I can't get to my neckthrough blank or wing timber, I still need to order pots and caps, and two of the tuners are still being manufactured. But I did get some paint to play with. I used some maple scrap to try stuff out:
Using a UV stabilised architectural grade water borne urethane clear :
(don't get too excited Simon) I sealed the timber. The manufacturer claims it can be used as a primer. :
As you can see it's nice and clear with very little if any yellowing.The idea was rather than stain I was going candy. I looked at the list of candies in the range of the manufacturer I was using, and couldn't find one the right colour. I figured I'd have to "coctail" as they say in the custom paint scene. I picked a red called Dirt Track Brown, and a Black which is more of a deep purple. This is what the advertised spray out of the Dirt Track Brown looks like:
and this is what I got on the Maple after 3 coats:
It was cleared using the same stuff I sealed with. If I was to sand and buff I could probably get a more candy like effect.I also discoverd I had already another red called Red Oxide. I don't know why I had this, but this is what the advertised spray out looks like:
And here is what I got after 3 coats :
The over spray of the two one on top of the other looked promising, so I sprayed a 50:50 mix:
I did try a 5:1 mix of Dirt Track Brown to Black, but it was way too dark. Here's what I am aiming for:
That's the original at the Rock'n'Roll Hall of Fame. I'm thinking the Dirt Track Brown will be fine on it's own.
Interesting. Do you need a white or silver base to get the full candy effect?
The DTB looks to be a pretty good match for the colour in the photo.
Depending on the effect you want, a strait up candy requires no base. A metalic silver gives a nice effect:
A true candy apple effect (red or green) is shot over a gold base. True fire involves red candy over a orange base, then orange candy over an orange base, orange candy over a yellow base, and yellow candy over a yellow base :
Blue fire is over white and blue, and green fire over white and yellow:
OK, so candy is basically a transparent tint and any metallic effect is obtained from a metallic base. So what effect do you get from it over a Metallica Bass?
Essentially the same as staining. These candies are not different to a stain, but in a pint system they are mixed with a clear carrier, in this case clear coat. The candies as are could probably be mixed with alcohol or the paint system's reducer and used as a stain. There are two main characteristics of a true candy. Like a stain they are transparent, and second, they get darker with each coat. A stain generally reaches saturation, candies just keep getting darker till they become basically black to the eye.OK, so candy is basically a transparent tint and any metallic effect is obtained from a metallic base. So what effect do you get from it over a Metallica Bass?
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