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Thread: Es-12q

  1. #11
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    Next stage - before and after several hours of binding scraping.

    The colour coats are done and I'm starting with the clear top coat.

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  2. Liked by: Cliff Rogers

  3. #12

  4. #13
    Member dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Very nice

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  5. #14
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Have you checked the height available at the bridge position yet? On my and an couple of other ES-1s, there's been very little height and I had to swap to flat topped (not lipped) inserts to get the bridge to sit low enough. The neck angle on the ES-1 (as on my ES-3) really needs to be increased slightly.

    If you need to do any work, better to do it now before you start applying the clear finish.

  6. #15
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    Iíve already started the clear coats, so Iíll just have to cross my fingers.

    Where did you source the flat-topped inserts? My first build was a GR1-SF, and I messed up the neck angle, so the action is higher than Iíd like. Those inserts would probably help.

  7. #16
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The metric thread option of these:

    https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-p...threads-p13495

    But beware of using them on a fully hollow body guitar for the bridge. On my ES-3, where the kit neck angle is definitely far too shallow, the block under the bridge isn't very deep, and when I drilled it the holes out to a size and depth to make stud insert easy for my straight sided inserts (which were longer than the kit inserts), I went right through the block. There's only a very thin skin of wood between the standard kit hole depth and the other side of the block, so without the T-top to help provide support, downward pressure is likely to push the straight-sided studs out of the bottom over time. So in the end I didn't use the straight sided inserts on the ES-3 but had a go at insetting the T-top a bit. (I need to have another go to improve this).

    In this situation there is the possibility of gluing another piece of wood on the bottom of the block for support. A couple of pieces of string through the holes, run out to a piece of ply with a couple of small holes drilled at the post locations, and the string run through the wood and knots tied.

    You can then glue the wood, pull it inside and against the block with the strings, tension the strings and keep the wood pulled against the block until the glue has dried. I'd suggest epoxy or gorilla glue, that can cope with a bit of a gap, rather than wood glue. Leave the strings long so the knots are in the middle and the loose ends running out of the guitar body, then you can cut the tensioned end of the string off and hopefully pull the string back on of the guitar with the loose ends.

    At least on the ES-1/ES-12, the block runs fully between front and rear, so the posts get support from below. Just measure the depth of the inserts and the holes before you install them, and drill out to depth if necessary. You can have the inserts sitting flush or just below the surface, but you won't want them sitting too deep. If the holes end up deeper than you want, you can just fit some suitable sized metal washers at the bottom to raise the height of the inserts.

  8. #17
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    Thanks so much!

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