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Thread: Saddle springs....Important or Not?

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    Member SJDavis75's Avatar
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    Saddle springs....Important or Not?

    Hi I've just been trying to do the intonation on my TLHA and the saddle for the bottom E string will not go any further back due to the spring being squeezed to it's fullest. This being said I only need two or three more turns to get it right. Is it an issue if I remove the spring to get the last adjustments?

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    You can remove it entirely, or cut the spring to give you length you need, but still allow the spring to its thing.

    The springs main job is to hold the saddle in place when there's no string tension on it, either when changing strings or loosening them for adjustments or similar.

    I once had a MIK Squier strat where I had to file 1.5mm off the back end of the saddle to get it to intonate. It intonated perfectly after that though! It was also a great guitar full stop.
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    Mentor ozzbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJDavis75 View Post
    Hi I've just been trying to do the intonation on my TLHA and the saddle for the bottom E string will not go any further back due to the spring being squeezed to it's fullest. This being said I only need two or three more turns to get it right. Is it an issue if I remove the spring to get the last adjustments?
    Another option is to look at your bridge placement. Can you move the bridge back a little 3 to 5mm....it will give you intonation travel for all of your strings now and in the future?
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    Member SJDavis75's Avatar
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    When setting this guitar up I did all the right things measured from nut on neck to 12th fret and from 12th fret to where middle of saddle positions should be. (measure twice drill once!) So I will see how I go with shortening the springs or removing the offending ones all together. If that doesn't work I will move the bridge itself back a short distance. Attached pic to show the bottom e saddle wound all the way.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210316_104821 bridge.jpg 
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  5. #5
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    When setting this guitar up I did all the right things measured from nut on neck to 12th fret and from 12th fret to where middle of saddle positions should be.
    FWIW, when setting the bridge position, you're better off measuring the full scale length from the nut rather than 1/2 x 2. The 12th fret can be out by up to 1mm± and the strings will still intonate fine providing the bridge position is correct.

    That said, guitar building is not (always) an exact science. I have had the bass E intonate as far back as 654mm on strats.
    Even different string brands (or batches) can intonate in different places. Weird and inexplicable things can happen with this stuff.
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  6. #6
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJDavis75 View Post
    When setting this guitar up I did all the right things measured from nut on neck to 12th fret and from 12th fret to where middle of saddle positions should be. (measure twice drill once!) So I will see how I go with shortening the springs or removing the offending ones all together. If that doesn't work I will move the bridge itself back a short distance. Attached pic to show the bottom e saddle wound all the way.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20210316_104821 bridge.jpg 
Views:	49 
Size:	214.6 KB 
ID:	39717

    ooo, I spy a hint of steam punk about this build. Curiosity piqued!
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