Best clear gloss finish for U-Beaut Dyes

[Jamsta]

Hi all, just putting it out-there hoping to get some knowledge from the experienced-ones on this site.

I've dyed my guitar using U-beaut dyes (they're awesome), but am curious on the best clear gloss I can use to make the guitar "pop".

Nitro, Polly, spray, wipe, brush, something else?

Any feedback and assistance hugely appreciated.

Cheers

[McCreed]

The U-beaut dyes are water based, but once dry, you can put any clear you like over it.

That said, "what is the best?" is more personal preference than anything else (or what is best for you) and application method depends on what facilities and equipment you may have. For example, people living in apartments typically don't have an adequate area to spray, so will go with a hand-applied wipe-on finish.

When talking about spraying, there's the consideration of whether you doing rattle can spraying or spray gun/airbrush spraying. There are similar principles involved but some differences in actual application.

re: "popping" the grain, that's more about what's under the clear coat than the clear coat itself. I think the exception to that is the difference between a satin finish and a gloss finish. Gloss will give a greater perception of depth to the grain than satin.

The two builds I have used dyes on (one was U-beaut, the other alcohol leather dye) I cleared with wipe-on poly (homebrew) and Tru Oil respectively. Both went on very easily and came up very nicely (IMHO).

I've been spraying my finishes with a gun and/or airbrush the past couple of years and I use acrylic lacquer on my bodies, and satin poly on my necks. I just prefer the feel of poly on the necks, but the acrylic lacquer gives me a deep gloss on the bodies that I also like. So you can see, personal preference plays a big part in finishing choices (and most things guitar).

[Jamsta]

Thanks so much for your reply McCreed.

I was a little worried about poly over ubeaut, as they describe on their site that it could "bleed" the dye. I guess that hasn't happened to you?

I do have the space to spray, so I'm happy to go down that route. Was just hoping for some reassurance from those in the know, that I'm not going to stuff-up what is starting look pretty reasonable for my first efforts.

Thanks again for your words of wisdom, they are very much appreciated.

Cheers

[McCreed]

I was a little worried about poly over ubeaut, as they describe on their site that it could "bleed" the dye. I guess that hasn't happened to you?

If the poly is applied by hand, with the first few coats there will definitely be some colour transference to the rag/applicator to a very minimal degree. It won't just wipe the dye off though. It's completely manageable.

If your going to spray, I would suggest laying your first few coats very lightly allowing each application to touch dry. This will "set" the dye. It may only take a couple of light coats, but once it's set, carry on with "normal" coats and you should be fine.

Are going to do rattle can spraying or gun?

[Rabbit]

If your going to spray, I would suggest laying your first few coats very lightly allowing each application to touch dry. This will "set" the dye. It may only take a couple of light coats, but once it's set, carry on with "normal" coats and you should be fine.

That method also gives you the best adhesion.

[Jamsta]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

To answer your question @McCreed, I will most likely try a rattle can.

About to create the decals today, so then I'm ready to clear coat this beast. Getting excited to see the results.