Yet another Sale item is coming my way.

[ozzbike]

Here is the ebay address:-

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Angelus-...4AAOSwbqpTyIBQ

I am nervous now Dave. I have ordered the same three colours that Big D used in his video...orange, red and yellow from the bloke at D Bay. They should arrive here early next week.

I am nervous now that my skills have to be up to the mark with this build....wow.

What really scares me is sanding to prepare....and then the colour sanding on the thin veneer....0.6 mm is seriously thin.

Wow wow wow. Maybe a very light sand before the dyes at 400 grit...and an extremely light sand at 400 grit again to suck the colour out.

I just hope there is no hidden glue spots and that the veneer is a fat one.

The back and sides of the body pose an interesting choice for me. Go red on the back and sides????? A light brown colour on the sides and a darker back??? Back of the neck in a natural or light brown colour??? The headstock will get a mini nuclear burst....maybe...another Veneer.....wow.

Maybe a yellow side....red back and red neck...burst veneer on headstock?????

You know it would have been so easy for me to just do my norm....natural oils and waxes. But I think the shape of the guitar and the veneers are asking for a bigger effort from me.

The body and the dyes should arrive next week.....nice nice nice.

P.S. The three bottles shipped today...should be here Monday.

[DarkMark]

I’d also be very concerned about sanding. I imagine the stain would pretty well penetrate the entire layer of veneer. Is wiping off stain from the centre outwards with the appropriate solvent before it dries too much an option? But really, I believe you could do a good job just shifting the stain about while it’s wet and fading the colour into one another.

[ozzbike]

I’d also be very concerned about sanding. I imagine the stain would pretty well penetrate the entire layer of veneer. Is wiping off stain from the centre outwards with the appropriate solvent before it dries too much an option? But really, I believe you could do a good job just shifting the stain about while it’s wet and fading the colour into one another.

Yes this does have me very scared. I think the decision will hang on the state of the veneer when the guitar arrives.

The kit is last listed as being processed at Perth facility on The 4 Mar at 0600am....so it is somewhere between WA and QLD right now.

The dyes arrived today....nice when the seller is 100km away.

The 50ml proof tint bottles I normally use are $10-50 each from the big green shed. These three 88ml bottles cost $21.26 each delivered......oh well.

Nervy now as I wait to see what I have to do.

P.S. The wiping off idea you mention does have some credit to it. I have looked at other videos from the same fellow and he uses the Neutral Dye to wipe some colour out of another build. mmmmmmm.

I have also looked at others who have sanded lightly with 400 for 3 minutes maximum.......by hand this may be safer for me.....no pressure....but will it sand any colour out. aaaaahhhhhhh. Maybe long light strokes down the body only may help and just drop the colour depth in the middle.

No prep sanding at all.....quick wipe over the top with metho to try and find any glue....hopefully none....try some Goof Off if there is any. Dyes....sand to lighten....then yellow over the middle.....no 600 grit sand afterwards. Seal....shellac x 2 coats...or just straight to gloss poly.

Depending on how this goes. A coat or three of CA glue to try and level out the surface and fill the pores. Then wet sand and then a couple more poly coats to gloss it up......hand compound...polish....wax.

Oh wow so nervous and excited.

[Cliff Rogers]

Watching.
I have tried the dyes on solid timber, pine and swamp ash, but not veneer yet.
The swamp ash coloured up very dark very quickly.

[ozzbike]

Watching.
I have tried the dyes on solid timber, pine and swamp ash, but not veneer yet.
The swamp ash coloured up very dark very quickly.

Cliff how much dye did it take to get dark? I watched the video of the Big D guy...and he seems to just pour it out onto a cloth and smear it around.

I am wondering if I do it with a cotton ball inside a rag balled up like a shellac mop if this will control the soak up of the dye and then the application flow.

This is such a nice guitar I don't want to mess it up with a learning curve.

Honestly I would normally try a new finish on a solid basswood body first.

The body is mahogany with a spalted maple veneer. The body does not bother me at all....I don't want to lose this veneer...but I want it to look nice too.

Really tempted to just seal it.....clear finish...with maybe a few coats of the tinted aerosol Poly I have here. But I also wanted an excellent looking kit like this to be totally different and to stand out.

Easy and safe way.....or push the limits of my skills and abilities???????

[Rabbit]

You could spray it with a blue or bright green candy......just sayin...

[dozymuppet]

I'm glad it's not just me who's nervous about their veneer top. Constraints are guardrails for creativity... but how the hell do you get depth on a quilted veneer if you can't sand a layer back?

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[Cliff Rogers]

Cliff how much dye did it take to get dark? I watched the video of the Big D guy...and he seems to just pour it out onto a cloth and smear it around.

I am wondering if I do it with a cotton ball inside a rag balled up like a shellac mop if this will control the soak up of the dye and then the application flow.

This is such a nice guitar I don't want to mess it up with a learning curve.

Honestly I would normally try a new finish on a solid basswood body first.

The body is mahogany with a spalted maple veneer. The body does not bother me at all....I don't want to lose this veneer...but I want it to look nice too.

Really tempted to just seal it.....clear finish...with maybe a few coats of the tinted aerosol Poly I have here. But I also wanted an excellent looking kit like this to be totally different and to stand out.

Easy and safe way.....or push the limits of my skills and abilities???????

It was the Swamp Ash that coloured up very dark very quickly, the crappie pine not so much.

I didn’t bother with a cotton ball, I just used a wad of T shirt material folded up a couple of times.

I have 4 kits with very thin veneer tops and I haven’t been game to start on them.

I am playing with solid bodies that I can sand back until I am confident enough to start on the veneer.

3 of them also have binding that is likely to be a problem with the strong dyes.

[Rabbit]

I'm not convinced that the veneer tops are quite as fragile as we are led to believe. The top on the violin bass is also thin veneer and had no issues when sanding it. I think that people are working too hard. The paper will do the work without needing to use massive amounts of pressure. I sanded it smoother than what it came with 240 grit. It dyed up nicely. I have some Silky Oak veneer that's about the same thickness (0.8mm) and it was hard work to thin it down to shim the side of the neck pocket of the EX-4.

[ozzbike]

It was the Swamp Ash that coloured up very dark very quickly, the crappie pine not so much.

I didn’t bother with a cotton ball, I just used a wad of T shirt material folded up a couple of times.

I have 4 kits with very thin veneer tops and I haven’t been game to start on them.

I am playing with solid bodies that I can sand back until I am confident enough to start on the veneer.

3 of them also have binding that is likely to be a problem with the strong dyes.

Oh this has binding everywhere. But, I found the use of Polyurethane (water-based), some blue tape and a kids paint brush works well. So I think I will have more time to think as I tape up the edges of the binding everywhere and then dribble on 6 coats of the water based polyurethane and then the issues shall begin.

My Bigsby Thinline Tele body has both binding and a faux binding edge I made and sealed both with this poly trick. It worked really well.

I want to see the binding first hand, but I have never played with binding and don't even know how to attach it.....and I was thinking about shaping the headstock and then curling some more binding around the edge of that design to match the binding already along the neck.

I think that the binding will need to be cut on an angle to sit in along the edge of the headstock at the nut. Then also cut and bevelled to meet the edges I may cut in. That will be fun too.

Honestly binding did scare the crap out of me. But since the poly thing I am fine with taking my time and sealing it up first.

The fitting of binding is something I have never done. I bought a stewmac router fitting to cut the groove for it and have never used it.

But my biggest fear is the veneer....and it leans me more and more towards just sealing it up and using the colours on another build. Just going a shiny natural body and headstock front with a matt finish back of the neck.