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Thread: SG Gibson

  1. #11
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
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    Many thanks both to Trevor and McCreed. Nice to know that the pots are still salvageable - thought I may have 'killed' them with so much re-soldering. Will give the clean-up a go, and try again. I'll have a look at Jaycar although I'm not sure how to test; what would I be looking for when testing? Do the pots, switch etc have standards regarding output? Presumably I would plug in my lead and test each component as well as joints? I did make myself a template before this series of re-soldering and yes it helps, however regarding the method of soldering - I'm aware of the theory but have rarely achieved it in practice (ie I almost always have to touch the solder itself which lead me to believe I needed the 40W in case the 25W was too low in power). Onward and upward!!

  2. #12
    Member Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Hi Grey,
    I'm near Freo, maybe we can organise a multimeter testing session!

    No leads are needed - just the guitar.
    To test a circuit I would (and this may not be the best way, or the correct way!)
    1. use the 200 ohm low resistance setting and check that the ground path is complete - by connecting one of the meter's probes to the inner part of the plug jack, and the other probe to the back of all the pots. The resistance should be very small (I get about 0.3 ohm).

    2.Use the 20 M resistance setting to check each pot ;
    i. by connecting the probes to the outside lugs (I get about 0.5 on the vol and tone pots)

    and ii. by connecting the probes to the middle and an outside lug (here my readings were smaller)

    3. Use the 200 ohm resistance setting to check the hot path from the plug jack:
    i to switch (in middle position) (I get 0.3 )
    ii. to outside switch solder (I get 0.3)
    iii. to middle vol pot lugs (I get 0.3)

    4. Use the 20 M resistance setting to check the hot path from the plug jack:
    i. to the neck volume pot PUP connection (I get 0.5) NOTE I do not have my PUPs connected yet so you may get different readings
    ii to the bridge volume pot PUP connection (I get 0.5).

    I hope this helps.
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  3. #13
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Trevor got in before I did, but I'll leave mine here just for reference. Very neighbourly offer from Trev too!


    I'll have a look at Jaycar although I'm not sure how to test; what would I be looking for when testing? Do the pots, switch etc have standards regarding output?
    This would require a multimeter, which Jaycar sell (I'm guessing you don't already have one). Pots have a tolerance rating which can be as much as 20%. So a 250k Ohm pot can read between 200k - 300k Ohms. You can buy ones with tighter tolerance but you generally pay a premium for those.

    There are lots of online tutorials on how to use a multimeter. A reasonably good one can be had for around $30, and go up from there.
    Worth their weight in gold for guitar electronics work and lots of practical non-guitar uses as well.
    Last edited by McCreed; 01-03-2021 at 09:58 AM.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #14
    Member GreyFloyd's Avatar
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    Success! Watched a video from sixstringssupplies which showed a kit with no sound and the answer was a run of solder between lug and pot. Cleaned my components, re-soldered during which I espied a glob of old solder sitting between the live lugs of the switch and touching the ground of the switch. Removed this with some difficulty, finished the job and hey presto! Back in business. Thanks for all the info.

  5. #15
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Excellent result. With electronics it's often times the simplest little thing like a stray bit of solder, but can be so hard to see. Especially from a 2D photo! Glad you got it sorted.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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