TL-1HA first build

[dozymuppet]

That's looking great! (I'd be tempted to try and get the same effect on the headstock if this was my project...)

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[Groovyman32]

That's looking great! (I'd be tempted to try and get the same effect on the headstock if this was my project...)

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Hmm interesting idea


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[Groovyman32]

That is my understanding also. White Spirit (UK) = Mineral Turpentine (AUS). And yes, 50/50 (1:1) White Spirit/Polyurethane.

Perfect thanks - all the bits should arrive today (thanks Prime) so I can get on it this week.

Looking at Big D's video, a bit sanding in the middle followed another hit of yellow dye should get you where you want.
I have not done a stain burst other than mucking around on scrap, so can only go by what I've seen on YT.

Yeah that was my idea. Sand, add more yellow and very light sand again. I’m assuming the poly will change the colour? Or as it’s clear it will totally transparent?

Yours is looking really good though! It's a shame that body requires such a prominent pickguard. It would be nice to show off more of your hard work there!

Thanks - yeah it’s a shame to cover it up with a massive scratch plate. I thought about making two smaller plates, one for the switch and one for the control cavity. Then I could mount the pup rings to the body. But I think the pup routes are too big todo this.

You might think it’s a bit daft to try a burst finish with this kit as the guard is so big. But the real story is that I also have a 2 piece alder body and roasted maple neck from a UK based builder. So while they were being built I ordered the PB kit to practice on. I have no prior experience so I felt I could make my noob mistakes on the kit.

I didn’t want to build two identical standard looking teles and a chat with a mate got me Jonesing for a 70’s deluxe tele. I was planning this same finish on the alder tele so I’m practicing it on the PB kit. But the long term plan is that if I can avoid ruining the PB kit and make a playable guitar then I’ll refinish it - may be in Danish Pete purple? I think that would suite the 70’s vibe?

Another option is to keep the yellow burst on the 70’s and do a similar burst on the alder tele - may be red/brownish to yellow. I always liked Fender’s sienna sunburst....


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[Groovyman32]

My plan yesterday was to work more on the body but since I’ve changed direction on the top coat finish I had wait for some bits to arrive.

So I turned my attention back to the neck. After watching a few vids I had a go at levelling the frets. I think that went okay - my rocker was a-rockin’ before and but wasn’t after.

I used an 8” Crimson guitars levelling beam with a piece of P240 stuck on using the masking tape and super glue trick.

I’m now on to crowning which seems a bit of black art. I’m using a Hosco crowning file which I think is doing the job. It seems most of the pros prefer a triangle file for more control over the crown shape. But I’m not a pro... so...

I’ll finish this process today...


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[Groovyman32]

I finished the crowning and polished with grits from 400 up to 1000. I was planning to 0000 wire wool but I forgot. Instead I went at it with my (not) dremel with a polishing wheel and compound. I'm quite pleased with how they look. They're shiny, seem to be round on the top and level.



Zooming into the pictures you can still see some scratches and tops look a bit flat - this might the be light? You can't see the scratches with the naked eye.... And I still have a little bit sharpness when I run my hand down the ends of the fret board - much better than it was but I might revisit to address these niggles.

I think the neck is nearly ready for finish. My plan is a couple of coats of tru-oil to seal and then maybe a wax. I'm still contemplating the idea of a stain to match the body on the headstock face - but either way I think I'll add more coats of oil to get more of a shine - like they do on the Elite strats.

[McCreed]

I was planning to 0000 wire wool but I forgot. Instead I went at it with my (not) dremel with a polishing wheel and compound.

First, not using the steel wool was a happy accident. You can find numerous anti-steel wool posts of mine here if you're so inclined.
As for the rotary tool, some say it's ok, others not so. There is an argument that a rotary tool will heat the fret wire too much and potentially soften any glue causing the fret to lift. It's not without merit, but I think there are a number of variables to be considered. I have done it a few times in the past, but have changed my method for other reasons.

And I still have a little bit sharpness when I run my hand down the ends of the fret board - much better than it was but I might revisit to address these niggles.

The best way to do this is with a fret end file. There are videos on YT that show (varying) ways to do this.
If you don't have a proper fret end file, it can be done with a flat or triangular jeweller's file BUT the files should be modified to have "safe edges". You should start with good quality jeweller's files, not $5 sets you get at the dollar store.

I just posted about this yesterday showing my DIY files. I also have a proper fret end file that cost about $35AU for the one file, but I use both my DIY safe edge files and that one regularly.

Here's the photo I posted yesterday on similar but different topic:

Not a great pic, but hopefully demonstrates the concept well enough.

Those fret dots look great too!

[Groovyman32]

As for the rotary tool, some say it's ok, others not so. There is an argument that a rotary tool will heat the fret wire too much and potentially soften any glue causing the fret to lift. It's not without merit, but I think there are a number of variables to be considered. I have done it a few times in the past, but have changed my method for other reasons.

I see. This did seem to make a big difference - they felt a lot smoother after buffing and I don't recall there being much heat. I found the biggest risk was the tool slipping and hitting another part of the board or neck. This happened a couple times but I'd followed the Crimson masking tape pattern and it just bounced off. It was then I realised why he'd used so much tape!

Here's the photo I posted yesterday on similar but different topic:

Nice - I guess you need a grinder to dull the edges?

[McCreed]

Nice - I guess you need a grinder to dull the edges?

Some guys use a grinder (preferably a surface grinder, not a grinding wheel) but you have to be careful not to overheat the file or it will loose temper.
Since they're so small, I just do mine by hand with a carborundum stone (silicon carbide). Then I polish them with wet/dry paper. It doesn't take long. If I was doing a large file or a quantity, I'd maybe consider using my grinder.

[Groovyman32]

Stain v2.0



Used a sanding pad to knock back some of the black and a lot of the yellow. Then added more yellow and evened out the black.

It's looking more Fender three tone SB than I wanted. But that's okay. I think I might do one more round of sanding and yellow stain.

[McCreed]

Looking good. Look forward to seeing it with the clear coat!