TL-1HA first build

[McCreed]

If if still smells, the theory is is needs to wait a bit longer until it stops.

However, you could start the sanding down process. That will increase the surface area of the poly so allow any remaining solvent to escape more easily. I'd hold off on the polishing until the smell goes, or another week has passed, whichever comes first.

Agreed regarding the ol' sniff test...

And the second part about sanding allowing the remaining solvent to escape, I discovered this as a result of my impatience getting the better of me. I thought it was my imagination or coincidence until Simon mentioned it here a while ago.

I had a body I had sprayed with acrylic lacquer that was taking forever to gas off. I eventually said "stuff it" proceeded with some sanding thinking worst case is I'd have to re-spray it. Within a couple of days after sanding, the solvent odour dropped dramatically and the feel of the lacquer changed (hardened).

[Groovyman32]

Today I spent about three hours wet sanding... I started at P800 and went through 1000, 1500 up to 2000.

After that it looked a total mess:



I was expecting that after 2000 I'd get a smooth but satin looking finish... but this looks like I've finished it with a brillo pad with my eyes shut - I'm pretty sure it shouldn't look like that?

I figured it was ruined - something had gone wrong with the poly application, perhaps condensation or just plain incompetence. But it felt really smooth... and it didn't smell of poly anymore so I thought I'd just try some heavy cut polish - to see what would happen - and it was this:



I was amazed that it was now looking really shiny and the patches where gone. So I kept on applying the polish by hand. I used Menzerna 1000, 2500 and 3500 compounds with their pads. They are intended for use with an RO sander but I didn't feel the need to use one. I just kept going, applying by hand. I can't believe how well this has worked.



But... there was point after the wet sanding where I went back in with some 400 to try and sort out one of the nastier looking areas on the back. And in my frustration I think I went at it too hard. It seems I've gone through. It also looks like there's some of edges where something similar has happened. I guess there's nothing that can be done other then start the finish again? There's no magic touch up sauce?

However, I'm so pleased with the outcome that I don't think I care too much. The main purpose of this build was to learn and to discover where the boundaries are. To do that you've to cross them at some point. Now I know what it takes to burn through I've got less chance of doing that on my next build. And it's not a total disaster.

I am confused about they way it looked after the sanding - I'm half expecting to come to it in the morning and it will be a patchy mess again...

[Simon Barden]

Nice work, but it is easy to go too far. And whilst you can polish a nearly-dry finish, you will get better results if you wait longer. You need patience by the bucket-load for this.

The magic touch-up juice is just more poly. Build it up again, sand that area and polish.

If you don't need to sand the surface level or are sanding off a drip bulge, then I wouldn't ever go any coarser than P800. It may take slightly longer, but far less chance of sanding through.

[Groovyman32]

Nice work, but it is easy to go too far. And whilst you can polish a nearly-dry finish, you will get better results if you wait longer. You need patience by the bucket-load for this.

Thanks Simon - I could hear you saying wait longer - but I was pretty convinced I'd be sanding it all off and starting again. So the polish at that point was a total gamble to try to save it.

If you don't need to sand the surface level or are sanding off a drip bulge, then I wouldn't ever go any coarser than P800. It may take slightly longer, but far less chance of sanding through.

The burn through was totally due to me trying to push my finger through it in total frustration. Afterwards I realised I was breaking all the rules... not using a block and only focusing on one spot. But like I say - a lesson well and truly learned.

The magic touch-up juice is just more poly. Build it up again, sand that area and polish.

Can I apply it to just that small area - or do I need to do the whole of the back?

Do you think the rough looking finish after the sanding is because it wasn't dry? Or is that the look I should expect?

I'm actually really pleased with the shine after the polish - way beyond my expectations. Perhaps I have low standards? There are a few swirls but I think that would be fixed by machine polishing perhaps?

[McCreed]

Nice result!
I guess the next post will have pictures of it fully assembled

re: sand-through on edges

This a common area for sand-through to happen. Especially with right angles that only have a very slightly rounded edge.
IMO this is due to a combination of two reasons. One, simple physics. a liquid finish (particularly hand-applied) just doesn't build up on the tight narrow "point" of the edge the way it does on a flat horizontal surface. Two, most people don't think about reason one when they're applying the finish, whether wiping on or spraying.

When I spray a body, I make sure that I concentrate on the edges with a couple passes with the gun (or rattle can) to ensure an adequate layer of material is going on there. Even with wipe-on poly or Tru Oil I take extra care to target the edges.

The other thing I do is during the sanding process. Whether dry or wet, I barely kiss the edge with the paper with very minimal pressure. More like just dragging the paper over it. Just the polishing process alone will be enough get gloss on a small rolled edge and significantly minimise the risk of sand-through.

[Groovyman32]

Nice result!
I guess the next post will have pictures of it fully assembled

Hah - can I resist the urge to do that today? Let’s see. My plan is to make a new pick guard. The knobs holes on the kit guard are far too close together and I don’t like the three ply. But I need to wait for the router bits to arrive - I have the router already.

I don’t want to drill the holes for the old guard incase the they don’t work out to be in the same position. I guess in the meantime I could tape the original guard to the body. Anyhow, there are a few fitting jobs I can do (plenty more chances to fudge it up) so I might not get that far.

re: sand-through on edges

This a common area for sand-through to happen. Especially with right angles that only have a very slightly rounded edge.
IMO this is due to a combination of two reasons. One, simple physics. a liquid finish (particularly hand-applied) just doesn't build up on the tight narrow "point" of the edge the way it does on a flat horizontal surface. Two, most people don't think about reason one when they're applying the finish, whether wiping on or spraying.

When I spray a body, I make sure that I concentrate on the edges with a couple passes with the gun (or rattle can) to ensure an adequate layer of material is going on there. Even with wipe-on poly or Tru Oil I take extra care to target the edges.

The other thing I do is during the sanding process. Whether dry or wet, I barely kiss the edge with the paper with very minimal pressure. More like just dragging the paper over it. Just the polishing process alone will be enough get gloss on a small rolled edge and significantly minimise the risk of sand-through.

Yeah, your absolutely right - this it what happened. I think this went wrong in the initial sanding. The places where it’s gone through on the edges seem to have a lot sharper corner then the places where it hasn’t. So it seems like I sanded off the radius.

I just want take the opportunity to say thank you to you Mc and more recently Simon, for all your guidance and advice so far. At 4pm yesterday I thought there was no way I’d be doing anything but sanding off a months worth of work today. I was so chuffed when I saw my face in the shiny body. I wouldn’t have got here without you guys. I know I’m not done yet - but it feels like the right time to show some love and appreciation. It will be easy to buy Simon a few drinks when lock down lifts, as he lives round the corner from me. But I hope I can do the same for you Mc some day!

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[Simon Barden]

You only need to apply the poly in the affected area. You could even just brush standard poly on to build it up quicker.

I think some of the layering affect you saw is due to the different layer applications not fully sticking to one another in that area. Possibly because the poly has been over-thinned (but I'm only guessing). Not sure what you can do about it. I've had a similar effect with nitro lacquer when I've thinned it down quite a lot so that it sprayed well. In theory, nitro should always bond well to nitro because the thinners in it melt the surface underneath. But it may also be down to trapped moisture.

The effect goes when you polish it, as the finer polishing compounds smooth off the steps in the layers.

P2000 is never going to look anywhere near shiny. To get almost shiny by sanding alone, you'd have to switch to Micromesh and go all the way up to 12000, which will give a semi-gloss look. But P2000 is good enough for polishing compounds to work well.

[Groovyman32]

You only need to apply the poly in the affected area. You could even just brush standard poly on to build it up quicker.

Cool - I’ll try touching it in with neat poly.

I think some of the layering affect you saw is due to the different layer applications not fully sticking to one another in that area. Possibly because the poly has been over-thinned (but I'm only guessing). Not sure what you can do about it. I've had a similar effect with nitro lacquer when I've thinned it down quite a lot so that it sprayed well. In theory, nitro should always bond well to nitro because the thinners in it melt the surface underneath. But it may also be down to trapped moisture.

Right - after you’re observation about the cool temps and condensation I was worried about this. I guess time will tell if there are any long term effects.


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[Groovyman32]

On Sunday I spent hours making a scratch plate template with a jig saw, a chisel and some sandpaper.



It took ages, especially the pickup holes. I was pleased with the general shape. I've made the area around the knobs much bigger and spaced the knobs so that they match the spacing on a real tele deluxe.

But I don't like it - it was too rough. I couldn't get the pickup holes square enough and the cut around the neck.... well it just wouldn't do.

Today my router bits arrived so I used my trim router (my new best friend) to cut a new template. I used the hand cut template to make the general shape and the plate from the kit for the neck cut out and the pick ups.

What an awesome little thing that is!



I did mess up by the switch where I tried to use the chamfered edge of the kit plate as guide - bad idea as I ended up taking a chunk out of the new template and also the kit plate - so I think I'm going to make another template before going at the real thing. I've only got one chance to get it right as I only have enough material for one scratch plate!

[Trevor Davies]

The idea was good. Shame about the chunk.
I love my router and bits also. I normally make my templates from MDF (and wearing dust protection).

If you are making a new template, could the top shoulder be even higher to follow the curve of the body? I found the kit plate of the AG-2 did not match the body shape very well so made a new one.

Or could the top shoulder of your new plate be trimmed to give a slightly bigger gap to see more of the top shoulder? This way you do not waste your first plate!