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Thread: Acrylic Rattle Can Finish

  1. #1

    Acrylic Rattle Can Finish

    Hi all, first post. I am building the ATL-1SB kit and i'ts coming along nicely.

    I orignally planned to spray both neck and body with Nitro clear coat (I have stained the neck walnut, and will leave the body unstained) and have bought a satin rattle can. However, reading more about nitro, it sounds like it will take many cans (i've heard up to 6 cans for the body alone). This will get very expensive so I'm looking at other options.

    Currently I'm thinking I'll use the Nitro rattle can I already bought to coat the neck, then find another option for the body. I'm keen to get a satin finish on the body if possible. Since the body is maple, I've been advised by Sydney Guitar Setups that I can spray straight onto the wood without using any filler.

    Does anyone have experiense with Acrylic rattle cans, such as this one? Any advice on number of coats etc.

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-32...paint_p1400719

    Alternatively, if the above isn't durable enough, I've also seen this:

    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...0g/367643.html

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Acrylic is is pretty good & you can get a satin variant from supercheap. I've used it on several builds. For a really nice satin finish that is extremely durable I find it hard to go past Cabots Marine Grade Polyurethane, available at Bunnings. It's around $20 for a can, but that will be more than enough for a body.

    I did this one in that product, but I had also done it in gloss and blocked it back before hand so that no grain is apparent. Some deeper cracks were filled with CA as well.



    This is just a can and no grain filling, but several coats over a few days.



    This one is using the same stain as the top one and no grain fill because I wanted to show the weathered wood a bit more.



    And this is the product itself

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...-pack_p1520268
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"


  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    +1 on the Cabots, and the SCA rattle cans.
    FrankenLab
    Where What if? meets Why the hell not?!.


  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    Acrylic is is pretty good & you can get a satin variant from supercheap. I've used it on several builds. For a really nice satin finish that is extremely durable I find it hard to go past Cabots Marine Grade Polyurethane, available at Bunnings. It's around $20 for a can, but that will be more than enough for a body.
    They look fantastic, and the level of gloss I'm looking for. How many coats of the Cabots do you apply? What's the curing time before you can assemble the guitar?

  5. #5
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    The satin seems to cure a lot faster than the gloss, a week is a good rule of thumb. Follow the instructions on the can, but basically shake it really, really well and for the first spray, point it at cardboard or something. It can be prone to clogging the nozzle and the first spray be a bit of gunk sometimes. You want to do 3 light coats with about 5 mins between each. After you are done spraying turn the can upside down and spray until its just the propellant coming out. Bit of waste, but better than clogging it entirely. After the first application (of 3 light coats) let it dry and see if you are happy. It will smooth out a lot as it dries and hardens. If there is still more grain showing than you want, block it back with 1200grit wet and dry, being careful not to get water in any holes or cavities. Makes sure its clean and dry, microfibre cloth and tac cloth are a good idea. Then do another application as above. You can keep repeating till you are happy with it.

  6. #6
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    I've tried the acrylic cans from Bunnings with no luck at all. Take forever to cure. Months before it looked like hardening enough that finger print's wouldn't indent it. I might have got a dud can or 2 but I will never use it again. The Supercheap one looks good.
    I'd go with SM's suggestion re: Cabots Marine Grade Polyurethane. I've been doing some test pieces using this over stain and it's working well. It comes in satin as well... https://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-...rosol_p1525120 The Cabots one Sonic suggested could be better again..

  7. #7
    Mentor fender3x's Avatar
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    I have had good luck with solid colors with MTN 94 rattle cans. I know it's available in Australia, but not sure where. In the US, it's reasonably priced in spite of being sold in art supply Stores. It can go on raw wood. It has very high solid content and works s bit like a filling primer. It finishes flat so you'll need a topcoat to get satin.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Thanks all, I'll definitely give the Cabots marine grade Polyurethane a go!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    The satin seems to cure a lot faster than the gloss, a week is a good rule of thumb. Follow the instructions on the can, but basically shake it really, really well and for the first spray, point it at cardboard or something. It can be prone to clogging the nozzle and the first spray be a bit of gunk sometimes. You want to do 3 light coats with about 5 mins between each. After you are done spraying turn the can upside down and spray until its just the propellant coming out. Bit of waste, but better than clogging it entirely. After the first application (of 3 light coats) let it dry and see if you are happy. It will smooth out a lot as it dries and hardens. If there is still more grain showing than you want, block it back with 1200grit wet and dry, being careful not to get water in any holes or cavities. Makes sure its clean and dry, microfibre cloth and tac cloth are a good idea. Then do another application as above. You can keep repeating till you are happy with it.
    What's your final step for taking off any rough specks/overspray?

  10. #10
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Really not a problem with that product. If you follow the instructions it will smooth out as it dries and requires no final step.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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