No. 39 is on its way to me.

[McCreed]

Dark mark beat me to it, but those two cylindrical cutters are the ones to use. (a 2-pack at the BGS for $18)
Dremel just calls them "cutters" for carving and engraving. They are akin to a router/end mill type of bit perfect for what you want to do.

Also I use the real pointy one in the photo for countersinking screw holes. Especially if the timber is already finished (or in pickguard material). The bit is really sharp so I don't even use the dremel, I just twist it between my thumb and forefinger. Occasionally I use in my old school "egg beater" hand drill.

[DarkMark]

Good counter sinking tip, McCreed. I hadn’t thought of that.
Run the dremel at high speed for the carving bits.

[ozzbike]

Dark mark beat me to it, but those two cylindrical cutters are the ones to use. (a 2-pack at the BGS for $18)
Dremel just calls them "cutters" for carving and engraving. They are akin to a router/end mill type of bit perfect for what you want to do.

Also I use the real pointy one in the photo for countersinking screw holes. Especially if the timber is already finished (or in pickguard material). The bit is really sharp so I don't even use the dremel, I just twist it between my thumb and forefinger. Occasionally I use in my old school "egg beater" hand drill.

"Good counter sinking tip, McCreed. I hadn’t thought of that.
Run the dremel at high speed for the carving bits."

Mac and Mark, thank you very much....it is a Big Green Shed trip...thanks again.

[ozzbike]

The SD diagram in your earlier post is the standard way of doing parallel/series switching. With the push pull 'up' the pups are linked in series and the neck volume works as a master, with the bridge volume having no effect.

The following layout is a little different. When in series mode the neck volume still works as the master but the bridge volume allows you to fade/bypass some/all of the bridge pickup giving you a bit more control over the series sound. The idea is to make it still loud but a little less boomy, and allow you to mix in some of the bridge treble without going full on. Essentially the bridge volume will control how much signal goes through the bridge pickup and how much bypasses it.

Attachment 39081
The 220K resistor is added in the series mode to reduce the pot's resistance across the pickup and flatten the taper of the pot. This makes the bypass/fade control a bit more progressive and less 'all or nothing'. I did some tests during the week with a 250K pot both with and without the resistor, and I definitely preferred it with. But, if you want you can just omit it from the layout and it will still work. (Note: the resistor image used in the diagram has 150K bands, but 220KΩ is correct value to use)

Just another option if you want something different.

Weirdy, I have tried three times with two different push pull pots and my skills are not there to get this to work. Multiple connections on tiny lugs and layers over layers of connections.....phew.

Rather then a flying control plate dangling out of the wall at the end of its maiden flight. I have removed the push pull pot and completed the standard Seymour Duncan wiring diagram.

I hang my head in soldering shame.

[ozzbike]

I have recently completed two guitars/basses with real rosewood fingerboards. I have been avoiding the dodgie stuff. The majority of my recent builds have been Maple and mainly sprayed at the same time as the neck so no tape used.

I have noticed that when I do the quick tape up, on the rosewood, for a fret level, recrown and polish the fingerboard appears very faded if not washed out when I take the tape off. I leave it a few minutes and it is fine. I also noticed that when faded it had the consistency of soaked skin...a sort of cloudy loose appearance.

Well, this morning I removed some tape that had been masking off an area to allow a respray with poly of an adjacent area. This respray has taken 3 x 2 days between 3 coats sprayed 10 minutes apart each of the two days....so applied for a total of six days....with a total of 9 sprays over the area.

Under the tape I noted the previously sprayed poly had gone soft and had the appearance of the loose skin once a blister has burst on your heel. The tape did indeed tear a couple of sections which will now result in an all over sand after two days and a 3 x coats and wait about a week to final finish. As long as the 3 coats fill the tears all will be good....if not it will be another series to fill the tears.

Nowhere else on the neck where the poly had been previously sprayed was there any movement, tearing of softness of the poly. It has to be the tape covering the poly and locking the air out....or maybe too early applying and covering with tape when the poly has not finished venting the solvents....or the tape adhesive itself does cause the effect you get when you leave a band-aid on for a long time.

Just a note...be really careful using any tape....and especially removing it where it touches previously sprayed surfaces and fingerboards. I cant speak for paint....but I have noted this twice now on poly.

Note:- I did apply a layer of wax to both fingerboards and buff them up after about 2 hours and they look great now.

[McCreed]

...or maybe too early applying and covering with tape when the poly has not finished venting the solvents....

This would be my guess. I never apply tape to any finish that hasn't at least gassed off to the point that it would be ready for final wet sand an polish.

I presently have a maple neck/fretboard that has undergone a re-radius and awaiting a re-fret. It will be getting a spray with satin poly after I have installed the frets. I won't do a level & crown for at least 2 weeks after the poly goes on.
However I will do the fret ends before spaying the poly, but I can safely do that without masking by using a proper fret end file.

Never had any issues with masking poly doing it this way.

[WeirdBits]

Dear Sir/Madam,
Thank you for choosing WeirdBits^TM wiring layouts. Unfortunately your recent performance has dropped below our required standards, and as such all future association is now terminated. May we suggest drumming or remedial shoelace tying as an alternate hobby for someone with your fine motor skills.

[ozzbike]

This would be my guess. I never apply tape to any finish that hasn't at least gassed off to the point that it would be ready for final wet sand an polish.

I presently have a maple neck/fretboard that has undergone a re-radius and awaiting a re-fret. It will be getting a spray with satin poly after I have installed the frets. I won't do a level & crown for at least 2 weeks after the poly goes on.
However I will do the fret ends before spaying the poly, but I can safely do that without masking by using a proper fret end file.

Never had any issues with masking poly doing it this way.

It was only about 4 days.....so I think you may be right.

[ozzbike]

Dear Sir/Madam,
Thank you for choosing WeirdBits^TM wiring layouts. Unfortunately your recent performance has dropped below our required standards, and as such all future association is now terminated. May we suggest drumming or remedial shoelace tying as an alternate hobby for someone with your fine motor skills.

NOOOOOOOOOO.

Remedial shoelace tying is such a come down from soldering. Please forgive me oh master of the hot stick.

[ozzbike]

Hello all, meet "Tip Toe", and she is done. Well for the moment anyway. Once five string stuff comes back into supply maybe a bone nut, better tuners, a good set of pickups.

She has a nice tone, and does the normal J Bass thing of having to have one or the other volume rolled off a little to get loudest setting. Sounds great though.