Levelling frets to radius

[Diggydude]

Hello,

I am levelling frets on my current build and decided to use my radius block to level them. This idea started when I discovered the bridge itself is a 12" radius, not flat like my others. I thought if level them flat, I would have high strings in the middle.

Is this correct? Should I go back and level them flat?

[king casey]

I use my radius block to go over the frets. Fine sandpaper of course.

cheers, Mark.

[robin]

As Mark says. I thought that all the Pitbull necks were 12" radius, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong.

[McCreed]

Hello,

I am levelling frets on my current build and decided to use my radius block to level them. This idea started when I discovered the bridge itself is a 12" radius, not flat like my others. I thought if level them flat, I would have high strings in the middle.

Is this correct? Should I go back and level them flat?

Can you elaborate? I don't understand what you mean by "flat". You mention the bridge is "not flat like my others." and also use the word flat in reference to levelling the frets.

One thing I'll point out is that bridges (on instruments with radiused fretboards) are also radiused to match the fretboard and never flat IME. Also even with a fixed radius bridge like a T-O-M style, the two radii of the fretboard and the strings are not necessarily concentric.

By this I mean with the treble E string typically set lower than the bass E string, so each string is not of equal height above the fret(s). I'm not saying you can't have each string the same height, it's just generally not desired for optimal playability.

[Diggydude]

McCreed I was referring to how this bridge, TOM style, has a fixed radius while the other bridges I've worked with don't have that (each string/pair of strings is adjustable up and down, the default is all of them flat) and the choice to level the frets with a radius block or with a flat block, getting the frets closer to flat than radiused. I realise now that even with a flat block, it would still mostly follow the radius...

In my limited experience with my own guitars, I've always tried to get the string height the same on all strings but it occurred to me that I would have to match the fretboard radius with each strings height to get that. I've just gone and checked on my guitars and despite trying to get them the same, I see that they vaguely match your diagram, the treble side slightly lower. This will be what I aim for then as it's comfortable.

Thanks Mark and Robin, I'll leave it as it is then (levelled with a radius block)

[McCreed]

I've just gone and checked on my guitars and despite trying to get them the same, I see that they vaguely match your diagram, the treble side slightly lower. This will be what I aim for then as it's comfortable.

This is where and why I use my string radius gauges when I do a set up.
I set the two E strings to the point where there is no buzz (or where I want them*) then use the gauge to set the in-between strings to match the radius. This way the result is a proportional arc over the frets. (if that makes sense)

*I'm one that is not a fan of "as low as you can go" on my own guitars. I prefer an action that is below "factory spec" but higher than the lowest.

[Diggydude]

Yeah that makes sense, that way it matches the curve. I usually lower each string until it starts to buzz, then I raise it slightly.