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Thread: 1st Ever Build - ATL-1

  1. #1

    1st Ever Build - ATL-1

    Hi Guys,

    First time builder here. I've wanted to build a kit like this together for ages and finally got the courage to give it a go.

    I got the kit for Christmas and pulled it out the other day and did a "mock build". As I'm a noob; it looked pretty good except I had no strings. I started sanding and filling in a couple of very tiny dents, I was going slow but happy. I wasn't too concerned about missing strings as I was gonna put my favourite set on there anyway. But after a few hours reading on the forum, including Brendon's post and The Googles, I decided I'd better ask for some advice before I carry on.

    So here are my questions/comments:

    1. Does the kit come with ferrules for the back of the Tele? if not how do I secure the strings?
    2. My neck plate doesn't align very well, in fact, it hangs off the edge of one side a bit.. it that fixable? (the photo makes it look a little worse than it actually is.
    3. The amount of wood is very thin at the top part of the neck pocket, is that normal?
    4. Might as well ask for strings - who do I contact directly?

    Hope my attached images make my questions a bit clearer. I've attached the photo of the 2 sets of bushings, as I'm assuming I got a second set of bushings instead of a set of ferrules/strings. But that's just a guess.

    Thanks in advance!

    Kris
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  2. #2
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    1. Does the kit come with ferrules for the back of the Tele? if not how do I secure the strings?
    Some T style kits come pre drilled for string through and should include ferrules - can't remember for ATL kits if they are - otherwise they will be strung through the bridge. If it is pre drilled for string through and you've not got ferrules - reach out to the team and they'll sort it out pretty quickly.

    2. My neck plate doesn't align very well, in fact, it hangs off the edge of one side a bit.. it that fixable? (the photo makes it look a little worse than it actually is.
    Might leave this for some others - haven't seen this before.

    3. The amount of wood is very thin at the top part of the neck pocket, is that normal?
    Do you mean the curved bit in the first photo? If so - yes it does get thin - its a result of the routing of the neck channel and the edge of the guitar. Treat it carefully and once the neck is in place and you've done a finish, it will be fine (has been for all of mine so far).

    4. Might as well ask for strings - who do I contact directly?
    Best to contact is Service at pitbullguitars dot com.

  3. #3
    Thanks Brendan, appreciate the quick reply.

    1. Didn't even know you could string through the bridge. Totally makes sense. That's embarrassing. Will do it that way.

    2&3. I think these 2 are related now (after screwing on the neck again) - it seems to me that the routing of the neck channel is at a bit of an angle. I've attached a photo of the variation of the gap between the neck and the body - originally I assumed that this was OK as it would be covered by the scratchplate, now I'm not so sure. This would explain why both this curved bit at the neck is so thin (I mean it's paper-thin and moves when a flick it with my finger), and why the neck plate hangs over the edge. I imagine a flappy bit of timber is going to be very difficult to sand and polish and I intended to just cut if off with a razor blade.

    If I had strings, I'd string both e-strings to see if there was anything obviously wrong with the neck channel. Is that correct thinking?

    4. Thanks, will do. I need them for steps 2 and 3.

    The problem for me of course, as a beginner, is seeing that the bits don't align perfectly, and then not being able to determine what is acceptable and fixable and what is a fault.

    Thanks again Brendan, and anybody else who has an opinion on points 2&3.

    Cheers Guys!

    Kris
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  4. #4
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kris View Post
    ...it seems to me that the routing of the neck channel is at a bit of an angle. I've attached a photo of the variation of the gap between the neck and the body - originally I assumed that this was OK as it would be covered by the scratchplate, now I'm not so sure. This would explain why both this curved bit at the neck is so thin (I mean it's paper-thin and moves when a flick it with my finger), and why the neck plate hangs over the edge. I imagine a flappy bit of timber is going to be very difficult to sand and polish and I intended to just cut if off with a razor blade.
    Every once in a while, you get one where things are off. From what I read on the forum this is more common on ES style guitars, but it certainly is within the realm of possibility on a TL. If it's bad enough, you might want to let Adam know. Assuming you are in AUS, I think exchanges are not out of the question. If you live somewhere far away that may not be practical.

    When you first wrote about the thin wood on the South side of the neck pocket my initial thought was that, yes, it is thin. But the way you have described it, it may be too thin. No matter what it's a bit of a pain to finish and polish without problems (at least for me) so if you can cut it off and sand so it looks nice, that might actually be a good thing.

    If the angle of the neck pocket is off a little, again, it depends on how much whether this is a problem. In your pic it does not look like it is off by much. So it might be fixable by sanding carefully on the North/headstock corner of the neck pocket so that the heel of the neck sits flush in the pocket. BEFORE doing that, however, you might want to dry-fit the neck, scratchplate, bridge-plate and control plate fit. If all the routs are nicely covered and it looks ok, maybe you don't need to do anything.

    With the neck plate, I would recommend getting rid of the plastic that goes under it. The plastic adds a bit of width and it actually acts like a bit of a shock absorber--which you don't want at the neck joint. Pre-CBS Fenders didn't have the plastic. I think it was added in the 1970s. If you are happy with the way it looks without the plastic, fine. If not, this is the easiest problem to fix. You just plug the holes with dowels, and re-drill.

    If I had strings, I'd string both e-strings to see if there was anything obviously wrong with the neck channel. Is that correct thinking?
    Yes, definitely line things up with strings. I often use a soft cotton string. It doesn't need to be a guitar string.

    The problem for me of course, as a beginner, is seeing that the bits don't align perfectly, and then not being able to determine what is acceptable and fixable and what is a fault.
    I have that problem myself. No issue is too small to bring to the forum ;-)

  5. #5
    Thanks fender3x, like you suggested I dry fit the whole thing together again. I was also able to find a set of strings in bottom of a draw, so I set the 2 e's up and 2 positives came out;

    1. The route holes are covered nicely; there is a tiny angled gap between the neck and the scratchplate, but I think it's passable.

    2. The strings on the length of the entire neck look perfect and balanced, it played pretty well. With only the 2 e-strings I was limited to Dick Dale's Misirlou and the (almost complete) intro to Airbag by Radiohead though :P

    Also, love the idea of getting rid of the plastic on the neck plate. I think it looks better without and if it's not needed I won't put it there. I'll see if I need to plug with dowels and re-drill.

    Thanks for the advice... Plenty of fun work ahead for me now...

  6. #6
    Hey Guys,

    Slowly plodding along with my build and I've hit another snag.

    I'm focusing on the body and I've sanded and primed and sanded and guide coated and sanded and gave it a first quick coat and I've now noticed that I've got a little depression along the edge. I hope the pic tells the story, but I've basically over sanded a small section of the edge and it looks like a thumb depression (if the body was made of playdough).

    The question is; can I just use a little putty on top of the paint to build it up and re-shape? or do I need to sand it back to timber for the putty to stick? Or are there better options to build up an over sanded edge that's already been painted?

    I'm using a dulpicolor can if that makes a difference.

    Thanks guys!

    Kris
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  7. #7
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Personally, I think you'd need to sand it back to do it right. Trying to get the putty to stick, and then getting the finish to blend nicely, sounds like almost as much work. You could possibly limit the sandback area, but you'd then have to deal with getting the finish to blend nicely again anyway.

    Or, just embrace it. Whereabouts is it? Will it show in ordinary circumstances?

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  8. #8

    1st Ever Build - ATL-1

    Thanks [mention]dozymuppet [/mention] , I reckon you’re right. “Embrace” is the right word. It’s not a massive fault, it’s my first build and it won’t be perfect. A lesson learned for the next one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Kris; 11-03-2021 at 05:18 PM.

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