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Thread: Explorer EX-1E first guitar build

  1. #1
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    Question Explorer EX-1E first guitar build

    Hi, we are a father and son team building our first guitar, and have gone for the EX-1E. Just unboxed and starting to make a plan. As you might expect we've got some dumb questions which we need to get out of the way:

    1) which pickup goes where? Does the wiring colour (red and yellow) have any relevance? The red one has a thicker mount/bezel than the yellow one, so we are guessing that goes nearer the bridge?
    2) What direction do the bridge saddle pieces point? we have three pointing one way and three pointing the other way, which seems a bit odd. And do the screws point towards the neck end or the tail end?
    3) We ordered the optional bone nut, but there is already a pre-glued black nut in place on the neck. How do we remove this nut and put in the new one?
    4) We are thinking of doing fractal burning on the body, does anyone have any experience or advice on doing this?
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  2. #2
    Hi Guys!
    Great choice of kit! 👊
    I am building my first guitar as well myself, and have limited time to do it, so treat my comments with care, especially when you will be ahead of me rather than behind.
    1. correct, the thicker mount pickup is the bridge - so opposite to how you put them in for the photo
    2. saddle pieces: the point is that thicker strings must be longer (it is correct as it is set up now) for proper intonation. Might look odd, but very important, otherwise you won’t be able to achieve proper tuning along the full fretboard. You will notice that the holes for the bridge are at an angle too (not perpendicular to the stings) - this odd thing serves the same purpose. As far as I have seen on other guitars, the screws can point in either direction. I asked the same question, but got no answer yet.
    3. I have never removed a nut before
    4. this is the first time I heard about fractal burning - after a quick Google search I just say stay safe!
    I wish you good fun with the project!

  3. #3
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    RudyRudy, the already-installed nuts are notoriously cheap, so the purchase of the bone nut was a good choice. I have done only one nut replacement, so there may be other and better ways to remove the old, but I used a razor blade to gently work in front of and at the base of the nut until I was able to wiggle it loose. Then clean up the old glue before attaching the new one. Good Luck. Hope that helps.

  4. #4
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    Rudyrudyrudyrudy, great project! Those intonating screws on the Gibson-style bridge point toward your tailpiece. (Opposite to photo)

  5. #5
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    A quick google search found this..... https://images.app.goo.gl/AXSWTNoFMbkU8bdU6
    Looks like screws facing nut or stop tail piece doesn't matter but angle of saddles should not be ignored.
    As for pickups, shortest wire = bridge.
    Cheers Waz

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  6. #6
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    The nut can be gently tapped out but as someone has already suggested, using a very fine blade to break the glue seal could help prevent tearing out, particularly end of the fretboard.
    Fractal burning looks risky and wish you luck with that.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    A quick google search found this..... https://images.app.goo.gl/AXSWTNoFMbkU8bdU6
    Looks like screws facing nut or stop tail piece doesn't matter but angle of saddles should not be ignored.
    As for pickups, shortest wire = bridge.
    Cheers Waz
    Very valuable info in this video, thank you for sharing Waz!

  8. #8
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    Been very very very slow progress - too much other stuff has taken priority. P{bus must admit to feeling a bit nervous of attacking it and screwing things up.

    What I have been doing is some experiments with fractal burning, which have concluded with what probably some of you were trying to tell me in the first place - not a great idea. Still it was fun - and we learned a lot!
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    In the first pic I tried some bog standard softwood (pine) and the fractal patterns were pretty cool and well ... fractal
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    In the second pic the upper piece is a block of beech which I had lying around - again the fractal burn "found" the grain and did some cool stuff.
    The lower piece is a basswood laminate I made up to simulate the construction of the guitar. All my fears were confirmed:
    a) basswood has such an indistinct grain that the burn has no decision to make and if your not careful just goes A-B via shortest route, which often involves a plasma-like surface burn (spectacular at the time but ultimately crap looking)
    b) it has a high tendency to follow the glue lines and if you're not careful, will burn the laminate apart

    So - abandon that idea
    Now thinking a solid nitro finish in a kind of aubergine or black cherry colour. Anybody done that and can recommend any paint colour names?

    Thanks in advance

  9. #9
    Really interesting experiments! Seems quite destructive too , good thing you tried it first on some other pieces of wood. I guess a design like this could work with rusty hardware and maybe even some bent nails here and there. That would look unique on stage but maybe would be uncomfortable to play

  10. Liked by: rudyrudyrudyrudy

  11. #10
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    Ok so body and neck now primed and ready. Question, should I now assemble body and neck together before continuing gloss topcoat? Or should gloss each part individually and then assemble afterwards ?

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