Hey McCreed and Mark, thanks to you both for the assistance and suggestions. Still 654 at treble E and 654 on the bass E so off to the bearing and bolt shop on the hunt for the longer M3's.
Hey McCreed and Mark, thanks to you both for the assistance and suggestions. Still 654 at treble E and 654 on the bass E so off to the bearing and bolt shop on the hunt for the longer M3's.
Scored a few 20 mil screws - and swapped a coupe over. The nut to treble E break point is now 650 -651. Another foray and wangled some 25 mil screws but will need longer springs so grabbed a box of mixed ones for $10 and just maybe there will be something in there I can use.
Another query. In the notch in the body to take the neck someone has written 640 in pencil. Is this significant?
Also - am attaching a pic of the neck, body, bridge and scratch plate --- . I was under the impression that we should not see and timber between end of the neck and the bridge plate. Opinions please. Thanks Mark and McCreed.
If you mean between the pickguard and the bridge plate, that gap is pretty common, even on genuine Fender Telecasters.I was under the impression that we should not see and timber between end of the neck and the bridge plate.
The gap on the real deal tends to be slightly less but it existence is not irregular. The gap on PBG kits tends to be wider and can vary from guitar to guitar.
I'll reiterate that PBG kits are generally very good (especially at their price point) but none are perfect or flawless. All require troubleshooting and outside thinking to more or lesser degrees.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
the 25 mil screws plus longer springs did the trick. 648 easy. Thanks for the assistance.
Same or similar. That was a good tip. Thanks.