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Thread: Re-finishing an Artist TC59

  1. #31
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Those sanding sticks weren't actually as useful as I had hoped, other than for very specific curves. Next time, I'll put a couple layers of t-shirt material between the dowel and the sandpaper, so it's a bit spongier.

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  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    it would be a difficult job to match and repair any finish you took off the heel.
    If it were my project, I'd sand the whole back of the neck (including the back of the headstock).
    You'd be free to apply your own finish.

    cheers Mark.

  3. #33
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by king casey View Post
    If it were my project, I'd sand the whole back of the neck (including the back of the headstock).
    You'd be free to apply your own finish.

    cheers Mark.
    Then you'd still be faced matching the tint of the fretboard...

    Oh, what am I saying... if it was your project, you'd pull the frets and re-radius to 7.25" and re-fret!!!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Then you'd still be faced matching the tint of the fretboard...

    Oh, what am I saying... if it was your project, you'd pull the frets and re-radius to 7.25" and re-fret!!!
    Sprung!! hehe

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  6. #35
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    Those sanding sticks weren't actually as useful as I had hoped, other than for very specific curves. Next time, I'll put a couple layers of t-shirt material between the dowel and the sandpaper, so it's a bit spongier.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
    I’ve used self adhesive rubber tiling strips on mine that seems to work okay.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


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  8. #36
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Started mucking around with a hand-applied burst, with the intention of spraying the black outer limits of the fade with a rattle can. But I wasn't really feeling it.



    So I sanded it back, and left the sides stained, to keep working up.

    Diluted stain:


    Undiluted top coat:





    Couple of blotchy areas on the top, most likely due to previous finish. I've very lightly sanded the top to give it some teeth for another undiluted top coat, and will start the Tru-Oil process later.

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  9. #37
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    So much Tru-Oil in my future.







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  10. #38
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    How many coats so far?
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  11. #39
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    That was 4 or 5 coats. I'll get it up to at least 8 before an initial sanding. I'm considering trying the wet sand with tru-oil technique.

  12. #40
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dozymuppet View Post
    That was 4 or 5 coats. I'll get it up to at least 8 before an initial sanding. I'm considering trying the wet sand with tru-oil technique.
    If you're wanting a high gloss finish with some depth, I'm not sure 8 coats is going to get you there, and that thin a finish is going to increase your chances of sand-through. I have done a minimum of 24 when using Tru-Oil, many go as high 50.

    re: wet sanding with Tru-Oil, I presume you're intention is to grain fill for a smoother appearance than you have presently.
    If that's the case, you'll want to thin the Tru-Oil slightly (with turps). I'd start with about 10% and go up if needed, but not more than maybe 25% max. I would use a wet/dry sandpaper not finer than 600 for this.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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