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Thread: EX Neck Fitting Issues

  1. #1

    EX Neck Fitting Issues

    This is my first guitar build and I am having trouble fitting the neck on my EX style guitar. I have the neck clamped into the body and the clamp is located in the neck pickup hole. The problem I am having is that there is a gap between the neck and the body on the back of the neck and where it comes out of the body. What can be done to remedy this? Do I need to level the neck pocket area?

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Hi parker, and welcome.
    Posting some pix would help with diagnosis. If you're unclear on how to do so, CLICK HERE for instructions.
    Also, I would not start modifying the neck pocket until after you load photos and someone can offer advice specific to the issue.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    With the set necks you are better off clamping on the end of the fret board (using something to protect it obviously) Clamping on the tang can reduce the break angle of the neck creating action issues later. Clamp it on the fretboard and see if the gap closes up. Also worth checking the break angle and neck alignment at the same time.

    Here's an earlier post of mine going over some things to check - different guitars, but the principle is the same

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post

    You want 628mm (I believe, the scale length is noted in the kit description on the shop site, be sure to confirm) from the inside of the nut to the high E saddle on the bridge (don't measure to the 12th and then from 12th to the bridge, the fret placement is fine, the overall measurement is more accurate for this), with the intonation adjustment wound most of the way forward. You can wrap tape around the posts to temporarily install them without pushing the inserts in. This is also a good time to check neck alignment by temporarily installing the low and high E tuners and running some ordinary string down to the bridge. Make sure they run with an even gap down each side of the neck and you are all good.

    Here's a pic of me doing that on an ES kit (Lying on the bench is better, this one had a really tight neck fit so it could sit in the stand)



    Also, just be careful when glueing and clamping, You want to make sure there is enough break angle on the neck. If you clamp too hard on the tang of the neck you can greatly reduce that angle which will cause action problems later. Good contact at the heel is the most important.

    You can check the break angle with any straight edge like this with the neck clamped.



    Different guitar in that pic, but same principle - you want room to have the bridge posts wound out a bit so the bridge sits up off the body.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  4. #4
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    And a pic of where I clamp set necks. The tang is still clamped, but the main pressure is on that forward clamp with the one on the tang tightened second and not quite as much. As long as there is contact and you use titebond it'll be fine.

    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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