It's just going to look a bit Gibsony.
It's just going to look a bit Gibsony.
Yeah, not quite as bad, but a shallower nut groove will make it potentially a problem.
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Perhaps lucky I got a graph tech nut...
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
On Gibson-style nuts, I do one of two things on the D & G strings, depending on whether I'm cutting a completely new nut or work on an existing nut. For a new nut, I cut the slots on an angle the same as the string will follow to the post; for an existing nut, I file a slight flange on the headstock end of the string slot. Either of these methods help with tuning stability by allowing a smoother path for the string to move through.
However, I'd be dubious of angling that low E slot that much to accommodate the tuner post. I think the end of the slot would finish up dangerously close the end of the nut, leaving it susceptible to chipping or breaking.
It may be just fine with straight slots. At least nuts aren't too expensive if you need to try a couple of options.
How does the treble E look IRL? The original photo looks like it will run pretty straight.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Hmm, maaaaybe not as bad as initially thought
Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
What's happening with this build dozy? No updates recently.
And, no pressure mate... It's just that the body came up so beautifully, I was excited to see it all together. Like I said though... no pressure!
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Waiting for the neck to cure at the moment. Also thinking about wiring it up (but really just avoiding the disappointment of my soldering inexperience).
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Ah yes, the waiting game! I forgot you hadn't finished the neck as of your last update. That explains the pause...
As for soldering, you've been steadily "tooling up" with your builds, what do you have for soldering tools? Just a on/off soldering "stick" or a station with variable heat?
Nothing wrong with a simple stick provided it's got enough grunt, however it's nice to be able to crank it up or down as needed.
Also, a lot of DIY soldering jobs go sideways when soldering grounds to the back of pots because of an under-powered iron or inappropriate tip. Good wattage and a chisel tip make a HUGE difference in how neatly (or not) those connections finish up. IMO, you can't beat a 4mm chisel tip for those jobs.
Of course, like anything, there's no substitute for practise and it's often one part of guitar building that many don't take the time to do.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
This is what I have. I suspect it is underpowered for certain applications, and it's not a chisel tip.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/duratech-4...ation/p/TS1620
Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
Kit builds: JBA-4M | STA-1M | AIB-1Q | TL-1 (in progress)
Side projects: Artist TC59 | Sheoak Dreaming | Spalted Marri Metal | Randy Vs | Sassafrassin' | St. Vincent
Hi Dozy,
that iron should be fine. The needle tip can work well for soldering to the back of the pots, just make sure you place the edge of the tip (a large area) flat to the back of the pot.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"