First Kit for me in the States - Headless Semi Hollow - Kindly advise
Hi everyone,
I must say, I'm very excited. I received this as a present and look forward to the build. That being said, I was hoping someone would help me with the bridge. If you can see in the picture the lower right anchor hole is about half off. What would you do in this situation. Looks like the routing was just... off... not deal breaking, but you know...
Thanks!
Stu
I didn't mean the unsmiley face really, but I wonder would it be fine with epoxy or a wood filler; I'm pretty new at this.
Yes that doesn't look ideal, but there will be a work around. I haven't played with one of those style of bridges, but someone should be along with advice before too long.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
Dig the attitude toward the process.
Hi and welcome.
That’s basically an unacceptable body fault and you really need to contact Pit Bull about it as they should send out a new kit IMO. A kit they’ve checked so you don’t get the same thing on the replacement.
You could glue a hardwood strip down each side of the slot, as both sides need some extra wood for the screws to be secure, but it’s not an easy job, and if you haven’t got long sash clamps to allow you to hold the strips firmly in place, then that’s more outlay for you. Take that into consideration if you get offered a partial refund for fixing it yourself. As the slot will be narrower with both strips in place, you may find it hard to find a clamp with an end that will fit in the slot. The slot needs to be narrow enough to hold both sides of the metal insert securely, so the screws only have the job of holding the frame down to the wood and not also stopping it moving from side to side (think of a nice snug neck pocket). And it looks like the strips for each side will need to be of different heights, which complicates things.
The OOfM hardware doesn't have the best reputation to start with, so it needs to be securely installed to have a chance of working as it should. I’ve never used one, but this guide from someone who managed to get theirs to work indicates they need taking apart completely, cleaning and lubricating, to do so. The plastic washers they come with are known to split easily - I’ve seen it on build diaries here, so sourcing some replacements might be a good idea.
https://www.headless-europe.eu/Files...enance_web.pdf
Hi Simon,
Thank you. I really appreciate the info. I'll start by reaching out to PitBull and go from there. Your ES-3 build is immaculate.
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