AES-1 Special

[DarkMark]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of you McCreed when the headstock was between the bricks...that would add some strength.
Have I mentioned how much I like my Shinto saw rasp?

[Bakersdozen]

I think the plywood looked better .

DM is tougher than me, he likes concrete sandwiches

[McCreed]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of you McCreed when the headstock was between the bricks...that would add some strength.
Have I mentioned how much I like my Shinto saw rasp?

So, the mortar goes in those holes????

[Bakersdozen]

So, the mortar goes in those holes????

Nah, the Pestle.

[Simon Barden]

Nice work.

In case you haven't, have you checked that the string path from the two E tuners to the nut doesn't catch on the sloped ends of the cutaways? If you need to remove a bit more material to fix this, better to do it now than later.

[HarmonIser]

Thanks guys. I was thinking of you McCreed when the headstock was between the bricks...that would add some strength.
Have I mentioned how much I like my Shinto saw rasp?

I'm loving the slotted headstock look - I want to do that on an upcoming lapsteel build.
Do you need to buy specific tuners suited to this style?
Oh, and please tell me more about the saw rasp!

[DarkMark]

Nice work.

In case you haven't, have you checked that the string path from the two E tuners to the nut doesn't catch on the sloped ends of the cutaways? If you need to remove a bit more material to fix this, better to do it now than later.

I’ve checked that again and again and again.

[Simon Barden]

Brilliant!

I can sleep at night again.

[DarkMark]

I'm loving the slotted headstock look - I want to do that on an upcoming lapsteel build.
Do you need to buy specific tuners suited to this style?
Oh, and please tell me more about the saw rasp!

I don’t honestly know if you need specific tuners for this. I have brought classic guitar style tuners, individual 3x3 with 6mm diameter metal shafts off eBay. I believe I’ve I have seen pictures of regular electric guitar tuners used in this way, but I really can not comment on that.

Have a search for Shinto Japanese Rasp Saw. I’ve got the 25cm course/fine blade. That course on one side and fine on the other. It is the BEST wood working tool I have brought. I’ve made a similar headstock once before and it took forever sanding to shape. With the rasp it was done in no time. It’s like a power tool with the control of a hand tool.

I’d like to see someone else having a go at the slotted headstock. If you use a veneer on top, be sure to take the thickness of the veneer off the headstock, otherwise the slopes to the slots get too long. You could use a rasp for that.

[Simon Barden]

You'd either need tuners with a constant diameter shaft designed for slotted headstocks and that are supported from the centre of the headstock as well as from the side, or else for a 'standard' guitar tuner style, locking ones with the locking mechanism at the base, not the top of the post. These Grover Sta-Tite tuners are the sort you want for steel-string acoustic slotted headstocks;: https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-p...-mounting-p702

With non-locking tuners, some strings you'd want to wind from the central string hole towards the outside, and some towards the centre. (those Grover Sta-Tites I lined to have two sets of holes, so you can string from the inside of the slot outwards, which can help keep the string wraps pulling against each other for more friction and better tuning stability).

There just isn't the space to do the winding towards the inside on a conventional electric-guitar style tuner, as the string is likely to slip off the end if you put more than a turn or so on (though it can depend on the tuner design). As you won't need more than one turn on a locking tuner, then these are much better to use than conventional tubers if you go for the type that are only supported from the side. Locking tuners would also be quicker to restring than any other type, as slotted headstocks make restringing a lot more fiddly than a flat headstock as you haven't got clear 360° access.

Some pretty technical people reckon that having a tuner that's supported at both ends does improve the tone and sustain a bit, which is why slotted headstocks are still popular, especially on smaller-bodied guitars where any improvement in sustain and a fuller tone is welcome. So conventional locking tuners may possibly rob you of the tonal benefits of having a slotted headstock. I can't say for sure.