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Thread: AG-1 Second build

  1. #1
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    AG-1 Second build

    Well this G-type seems somewhat more involved than the ST I build last year. And looking at forum posts and the photo gallery, I'm feeling like rather a dummy. So I may become a pest, here with a lot of simplistic questions. But first. Doing the mock build. When the neck (set neck type) is fully inserted into the neck pocket, there is insufficient room in the pickup rout for the pickup. When I pull the neck out to accommodate the pickup, the scale length, 12th fret to bridge, is now about 4 mm longer than nut to 12th. Do I have a problem? thanks.

  2. #2
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    With these set neck kits, you don't necessarily need the neck pushed into the body as far as it will go. If your post holes are already drilled (which it sounds like they are) then that guides where the neck needs to sit. If you look at the fret calculator on the Stew Mac site, it will tell you how far the nut should be from the bridge for your scale length.

    Can you post some pictures?

  3. #3
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    Assuming your AG1 has a 24.75" scale length, the distance from nut to the centre of the high E post should be 24.811" ( 0.030") (~630mm) which might account for a couple of mm of that difference.

  4. #4
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    Many thanks, jonwhitear. I was using the old saw about nut to 12th fret distance equaling 12th to bridge distance. StewMac now tells me I am on the high edge of OK. Your second post makes it even more comfortable.
    Visited your beautiful country a couple of years ago from Utah, USA. Sydney, Snowy Mtns, Melbourne, Adelaide. Loved every minute.

  5. #5
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    That's good to hear. Hopefully it won't be too much longer before we can all travel again!

  6. #6
    Mentor McCreed's Avatar
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    There is lots of discussion on the forum pertaining to set-neck builds, locating the bridge etc.

    One thing you'll commonly read is focusing on the overall scale length not the nut to 12th fret x 2.

    There is also a handy PDF Building Guide: http://pitbullguitars.com/wp-content...s%20Manual.pdf

    The guide also describes how to temporarily mount the TOM bridge posts/bridge specifically for finding the correct scale length.

    At the risk of sounding like a smart-arse, if all else fails, read the instructions
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the advice, McCreed. I see so much talent and creativity in these posts, and I'm one who kinda needs to be walked through it. But we'll get there at the last.

    Next question - there is a slight ding on the rosewood fretboard, between 14 and 15, and I'd like to mask it with something that will match the original color. Any suggestions. Also, the manual suggests finishing the fretboard simply with lemon oil. I can't get Dingotone stuff up here. Is that the best approach? Thanks again.

  8. #8
    Member Cliff Rogers's Avatar
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    Damp cloth and a heat source.
    I have a soldering iron so I use that.
    https://youtu.be/IbxXFRvo8tA
    Cliff

  9. #9
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    Thanks. Cliff. That should be great for the dent. What about the color, which shows up lighter than the rest of the board?

  10. #10
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Lemon oil may solve that, as it will make the board appear darker. You can also use mineral oil of the type thats sold for seasoning chopping boards (same stuff without the lemon scent). But that area may just look lighter just because it is dented and reflecting light in a different way. So steam it first and see if you can remove it, and see what it looks like afterwards.

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