AG-1 Second build

[dozymuppet]

Dozymuppet, just rattling around the build diary stack, and I came across your re-do of the TC-59. Mind if I ask for more detail on how you got that color. Black edges with deep brown wood-grained body? Wow!

Thanks. it's kinda one of those things where the project takes you where it wants to. I was keen on a grey/black stain look, intending it to be a cooler tone than the warm tone it turned into, but I embraced it and moved on. I also experimented with a hand-applied burst, so the edges were stained darker at that point. When I sanded back the aborted burst idea, I left the edges stained. Then, when re-staining the rest of the body, I reapplied stain to the edges, which gives it that final effect.

[Trevor Davies]

Looking good XP rider. Love the blue body.

[XP Rider]

Thanks, Trevor. The cherry red on your AG is spectacular. Mine has a basswood body, so I didn't have the luscious wood grain that you have.

[Trevor Davies]

Thanks, Trevor. The cherry red on your AG is spectacular. Mine has a basswood body, so I didn't have the luscious wood grain that you have.

Thanks XP Rider. The AG-2 is basswood - but I was lucky with the grain.

[XP Rider]

Quick question. Following the PBG wiring diagram for 2 humbuckers, 4 pots and a 3-way, it looks like it will put the volume knobs on the outside, tone knobs inside in line with the 3-way and output. Is there any convention on this, an preferred way, or a matter of personal preference?

[Trevor Davies]

Hi XP Rider,
I don't look at the wiring diagram as being diagrammatically correct - I just follow the wire links. On the Pitbull diagram the 3-way switch does appear to be on the wrong side (and should be on the pup side of the diagram). I definitely have the volumes on the inside and the tones on the outside.
The picture below shows my circuit for the AG-2 kit (I will use the terminal strip to join the pups without any soldering (just my weird way)). This is also the wiring setup for my FBM-1.

[XP Rider]

Thanks a bunch. I hope that gives me what I need. I've printed both photos, and am trying to decipher, lots of dark wires and also shadows. I'll see what I can do. Seems like the main thing is to have power to the points that need power, and ground to the points that need grounding.

[XP Rider]

Dang lot of intense soldering, and too many places for mistakes and bad connections.
Next question - the lugs on the volume pots are not long enough to fold back onto the ground, as shown in most diagrams (Seymour Duncan shows them soldered). Is that a problem?

[WeirdBits]

Using a short length of wire to link the ground lug to the back of the pot is standard practise for shorter lugs, and is commonly used even when the lugs are long enough. Either use some stripped insulated wire or, more often, the stiff leg off-cuts from capacitors or resistors.

You need that lug connected to ground for the volume pot to work correctly, otherwise it will not turn the volume down fully.

[XP Rider]

Thanks for setting me straight, WierdBits. You know there is a tremendous learning curve for unhandy dudes like me. But working on these builds is rather addicting, so hopefully I'll keep going and use all this handy information. Forum is invaluable.