AG-1 Second build

[XP Rider]

Here is the neck with about 20 coats of TruOil. When cured, it will be polished with Maguires.

[XP Rider]

Well, here is the body. Obviously not trying for anything fancy, here. But as you can see from the dark areas (glare spot not withstanding), I did not get the finish I want. So a little more sanding and a couple more coats of paint. A new can of Gracey's Clear Coat has been ordered.

Note the large C-clamp. With the set-neck AG, you cannot use the board bolted in place of the neck as shown in the manual p.19, and the output jack hole is in the front, so you can't use the dowel method shown on p.20. A tightly attached C-clamp may give you a handle to manipulate the body. And the dowel stuck thru the pick-up wiring hole allows me to clamp it to something and stand the body on its head while the spray coats dry. Someone may find this useful.

[XP Rider]

Mess up, sand back, paint again. Mess up, sand back, paint again. The paint goes on with minimal trouble, but the clear coat can be a real bear. Fourth try, and I think I am satisfied.

Looking ahead, a question. Pickguard and hardware are all black. During initial inventory, I noticed a new black nut in the package. Looking at it now, it is plastic, just like the one I just took off the neck. I also ordered a bone nut, which is white. Does anyone have experience or ideas on dying a white bone nut to match the rosewood fretboard, or the black tuning machines? Thanks in advance.

[XP Rider]

I guess no one has tried to dye a white bone nut. I found a black TUSQ nut at Musicians' Friend that I hope I can modify to fit.

Next questions: The neck has a little play when fitted into the pocket. How do I set it in the right position, leading straight out? Next, what is the best way to fill the small spaces between neck and body? Third, I have stained and TruOiled a little too much of the neck heel. How much do I have to do to rough it up so the glue will take?

[McCreed]

The paint goes on with minimal trouble, but the clear coat can be a real bear.

Just curious what problems you were having. Also what finish did you apply?

Does anyone have experience or ideas on dying a white bone nut to match the rosewood fretboard, or the black tuning machines?

From what I've read, there have been varying results with dying bone, and there seems to be minimal absorption into the bone. A lot of people that have tried it, wound up buying a black nut (corian or graphtech) or nut blank. Alcohol based leather dye was a common product used.

How do I set it in the right position, leading straight out?

Pages 9-13 in the PBG Manuel discuss temporary bridge installation, scale length and neck alignment. Fairly straight forward procedure. You can always ask questions on specific aspects if you get stuck.

Next, what is the best way to fill the small spaces between neck and body?

Typically the gaps with a set neck are quite narrow because it requires a tight fit in order for glue to adhere to both surfaces adequately.
Therefore most gaps will be filled when the final clear coat is applied. This may require some extra thought if you have two different top coats on the body and neck (Tru Oil on neck, ???? on body). I think using the same clear on both body & neck is more common.

Third, I have stained and TruOiled a little too much of the neck heel. How much do I have to do to rough it up so the glue will take?

You should sand the heel back to bare wood* at any areas where it will contact in the pocket. You can sand it back within a few mm short of where the edge of the pocket stops (ie: where the neck becomes visible out of the pocket).

*A little bit of stain left shouldn't be an issue, but definitely remove the Tru Oil.

[XP Rider]

Thanks, McCreed. This forum is invaluable to us plodders. I feel sometimes like I'm trying to dance a ballet in my irrigating boots.

Anyway. The neck is finished with maple stain, then TruOil. Body sprayed with Gracey's metallic blue nitro, then two cans of Gracey's nitro clear coat spray. (You can't get Gracey's downunder, I think, as we cannot get Dingotone up here.) Paint went on nice and even (second try), but the clear coat insisted on producing little droplets instead of spray mist. I warmed the can (don't apply below 70 F.), shook it constantly, turned the nozzle to prevent clogging, still got droplets (fourth try). I sanded to 2000 before polishing with Meguires, but not wishing to risk sanding thru the clear coat, I still have a slight orange-peel texture. But it's an even texture, and it did polish to a pretty nice shine. I kind of like it. Front is a little better than the back. Your suggestion of same clear on body and neck is definitely useful advice for a future build. I found a black graphtech nut at Musicians' Friend, which I hope will work with some sanding. I'll post a photo when I get some help.

[XP Rider]

Got brave enough last night to try my first set neck glue job. Set the neck pickup in and measure the spacing, 12th fret to bridge saddles. Put the E-strings on to check neck alignment, then loosen strings, remove pickup, smear on glue, and clamp it. Spacing can be re-measured with the clamp in place, but if I re-tighten the strings enough to check the alignment, I'm afraid the tension will pull the neck forward and mess the spacing. Much wringing of the hands. But what do ya know, this morning it looks like it held quite well. Whew.
Now on to soldering.

[dozymuppet]

Looking forward to seeing updated pictures!

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

[McCreed]

Spacing can be re-measured with the clamp in place, but if I re-tighten the strings enough to check the alignment, I'm afraid the tension will pull the neck forward and mess the spacing.

The neck alignment can be checked and adjusted without having the strings on by using a long steel rule held against the side of the neck (edge of the fretboard). It gives you the same information just from a different point.

If you picture the steel rule as an extension of the neck running through the body, you can measure the relationship between the steel rule edge and the bridge, E saddles or even the bridge post holes.

Also, if aligning with strings, they don't require any more tension than to take out the slack. You can even use fishing line or baking twine for this purpose. In fact, as a quick check, I've done it simply by holding a string with my fingers across the E nut slots and the E saddles.

[XP Rider]

Here's the next step. Thanks to you both for your interest. McCreed, I'd like to have you on speed-dial before each operation. Maybe if I stay with this long enough, I'll learn enough to do it right. But in the meantime....
The surface is gently rippled, and if someone asks, I might tell them it was intentional. If I've learned on thing from this forum, it is that there are no rules. Anyone is likely to do anything.
Dozymuppet, just rattling around the build diary stack, and I came across your re-do of the TC-59. Mind if I ask for more detail on how you got that color. Black edges with deep brown wood-grained body? Wow!