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Thread: Tube amp build (s)

  1. #111
    Just double checking (as transformer wiring continues to confuse me), will this wiring work if I have one of these 120v indicator lights?

    The transformer I have has 120 and 240 v primaries, and so far I haven't found a 240 v light that I like the look of.

    I realised I should have labelled my drawing better, but I hope it makes sense? Indicator on the left, dpst switch on the right.

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  2. #112
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Have you first checked with a meter that the primary is one single tapped winding rather than two separate sets of windings? You need the primary to act as a voltage divider for it to work at all, but if the windings are separate, then it won't.

    Assuming the windings are all connected, there's something inside of me that says it's wrong to do it like that, but I can't think of any logical reason why (for the moment at least).

    Surely it's more a case of finding a suitable 240v bulb to fit a 120v holder? I'm sure Fender don't use different jewel lights for their 120v and 240v versions, just different bulbs inside them.

  3. #113
    Thanks Simon - I'll double check with a meter tomorrow.

    I'm sure I've read of someone else doing it like this, but I can't find it again (and I don't trust my memory)

    Happy to keep looking for a nice 240v light if necessary, and obviously I can also wire in one I don't like as an interim until I find one I do!
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
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  4. #114
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I know this is in the UK but here are a number of different coloured jewel lights to fit a standard Fender bulb holder along with a 230/240v bulb:

    https://www.hotroxuk.com/amplifier-p...el-7475-0.html

    Or maybe you want something very different? However I'd expect most jewel lights are threaded to screw into that standard bulb holder.

  5. #115
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I know this is in the UK but here are a number of different coloured jewel lights to fit a standard Fender bulb holder along with a 230/240v bulb:

    https://www.hotroxuk.com/amplifier-p...el-7475-0.html

    Or maybe you want something very different? However I'd expect most jewel lights are threaded to screw into that standard bulb holder.
    There are both metric and imperial threaded lamp holders, so you obviously need the appropriately threaded jewel.
    I can't remember what the diameter and thread count is for the imperial (Fender) ones now. It's been many years since I dealt with the lamps and jewels.

    A lot of modern amps have switched to LED now. Which is kind of sad, but I guess the way of "progress".
    I know they'll use an LED that changes colour to discern between stand-by and on.
    NOT that you want an LED on a vintage-style hand-wired amp!!! I was just pointing it out...
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  6. #116
    Ahh, excellent, thanks guys.

    I do like the fender lights, but don't like the Marshall ones. I was looking to see if there was an alternative neon/LED similar to the Marshall one but, well, nicer. The only one's I liked were the 120v ones I linked to above.

    I didn't realise you could get 240 v bulbs for the fender lamp holders. That probably solves it for me tbh.
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    #005 (LP jr)
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  7. #117
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    If you can get them as standard in the UK, I can't see any reason why you can't get them easily in Australia.

  8. #118
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Technically your drawing can be correct. As was pointed out the primary 240vac winding needs to be one winding with a 120vac tap.... or two 120vac winding's that need a bridge between them.

    A point to note about your switch. For it to have both active and neutral pass thru it the switch MUST have a physical barrier between any active and neutral terminals. By physical barrier it can just be a bit of plastic or other non-conductive material that runs all the way down the center of the switch..... If you can use a screwdriver or bare piece of wire and can make a short circuit type contact between any of your intended active and neutral terminals then your switch is definitely not suitable to switch both active and neutral at the same time. Despite any rating labels No physical barrier means it can only be used to switch one or the other but NEVER both..... To add insult to injury in Australia if a no physical barrier main power switch is discovered to be the possible cause of a house fire all insurance companies are well within their rights to refuse any resultant claim, and decent fire investigators know to look for such things.

  9. #119
    That's really good to know, thanks Marcel (where would I be without you!)

    I actually didn't know those switches existed - I assume you mean one like this? - https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/8610298
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  10. #120
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnH View Post
    I just had this super fun parcel arrive in the post (ordered from here).

    I only ordered it a week ago, so it came quite quickly. It was a bit of a gamble, as the dimensions on the site don't show the cut out size for the faceplates. Thankfully it looks like it's a perfect fit - I might just need to get faceplates that are 5mm taller than the ones that came with the chassis, but I was going to get new plates anyway so that's not a huge drama.

    I don't know how I missed this!
    That's a way cool looking enclosure. Now I really get the purple mica tele build!

    (you're going to need a purple tolex extension cabinet now)
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