Curing frustration

[Leif]

I got so frustrated with my first build and DT curing times that I'm starting again. Been waiting over five weeks for final coat to cure. Had it in my warm garage with an occasional light fan and it was still sticky. I did 3 very thin coats of each, would perhaps 2 be better?
I think there should be more info and realism on drying times and conditions so people can expect the worst and hope for the best.
Trying to sand it back now but just keeps clogging paper. Guess I'll get there eventually.
Love the idea of DT stain but very frustrating.

Better luck for my next effort.

Cheers,

Leif.

[Trevor Davies]

Yeah, I had a similar problem with my FVB-4 even though it was in a heated room. I ended up using Tru-oil for the finishing coats. With my FBM I used Feast Watson stain with tru-oil and that worked well. I can get 5 or more coats of tru-oil on within a day.

[Leif]

Cheers, Trevor.
It's quite deflating as you put so much work and energy into watching and wishing the coats to cure.
5 or more coats of TO? Do you need that many?

Leif.

[Trevor Davies]

Actually I use more, but I can do 5 coats in 1 day. On the FBM I think I did about 20 coats, and I'm up to 20 on my pine explorer.

I'm not sure how many are really needed! The more coats the better the shine.

[Simon Barden]

All depends on the finish you want. Flat, shiny and glossy - then 30+ depending on how much intermediate sanding you need to do. Each TO coat is very thin and it takes a lot to build up a layer thick enough to sand back flat and then polish to a shine. For a rougher satin finish, then you coud just apply 5. If you do any sanding on it, then be aware that on corners or raised areas, you will always apply more pressure when sanding, so it is easy to sand through the TO in those areas. But at least it's easy to repair the damage to the TO. Less so if you sand through the stain underneath to the wood.

[Raven]

Following the instructions provided I put multiple coats of Dingotone top coat on a guitar about 5.5 years ago and it still hasn't cured. Can someone please suggest something (drying agent ?) that might trigger curing or alternatively can you suggest something (e.g. Acetone ?) that will take off the top coat without destroying the underlying stain job. I am really over this and the lack of response I got to this same question 5 years ago.

[Trevor Davies]

Following the instructions provided I put multiple coats of Dingotone top coat on a guitar about 5.5 years ago and it still hasn't cured. Can someone please suggest something (drying agent ?) that might trigger curing or alternatively can you suggest something (e.g. Acetone ?) that will take off the top coat without destroying the underlying stain job. I am really over this and the lack of response I got to this same question 5 years ago.

Hi Raven.
As mentioned in post #2 on this thread, I had a similar problem with my FVB-4 build. I gave up waiting after about 2 months, and then coated the body and neck with Tru-oil. I'm not sure if I was just lucky, or that the Tru-oil is compatible with the DT.

NOTE: I was never sure if the DT had not cured, or if it just felt tacky with my touch. Either way, it did not feel good! And I have not used DT since.

I have heard that Shellac will (should!!) be compatible with most finishes. I think some people will use it between non compatible coats! Maybe you could try adding a few coats, and then add some other finishing coats.

My 2 cent worth:
Try it. If it cures (and does not react) - then great. If it does not work - then you will have to sand it back completely and start again. I think it is worth a shot.

Hopefully some others can offer more advice!

[Simon Barden]

Anything that removes the Dingotone will also be capable of lifting the stain, so AFAIK there isn't any magic solution that can do one without the other.

Covering the Dingtone with another finish may give you a hard surface, but be aware that it may possibly still remain soft under the surface (I've had this when using two types of finish). I believe Dingotone does contain linseed oil, the same as TruOil does, and the hardening agents in TruOil may trigger the oil in the Dingotone to polymerise properly, so you may be OK. You could take the scratchplate off (I assume this is your JMA-1) and try the TruOil on a patch where it won't show, and let it cure for a few weeks, then see if you think it's all gone hard on that patch. It shouldn't give if you press down on it lightly with a screw head. if it creates an indent with a ridge round it then its soft under the surface.

If soft, the only really 100% safe way to do it is to sand the finish back to bare wood and start again, using a different product.

[fender3x]

I have had finishes that never quite cured. Not hard if you live in a hot, humid place and can't let things cure at mfg specified temps. It can also happen if there is something over or under your finish that doesn't agree with it. All reasons to experiment.

However, there have been a lot of reports about Dingo Tone not curing properly, or having color changes when it cures. I would have used it on my first build, but for the fact that it could not be shipped to the US. I really liked the idea of "all natural" and "no harmful chemical ingredients." I eventually painted the guitar with Duplicolor, which also did not cure...but that's another story.

Meanwhile, I am not sure why PB still sells Dingotone (no one else seems to) or even what it actually is. Probably best to avoid it.