Too much information!

[Groovyman32]

Hi all,

I'm a first time builder and I have a TL-1HA inbound. While I wait for delivery I thought I'd plan the finish. There's so much conflicting information on the internet that I'm finding planning this out quite confusing. I think I have a plan but then I read something that contradicts it and it all goes out the window.

My latest idea is to:

1. Grain fill with some black tinted grain filler and sand back.
2. Stain with Crimson stain - wire wool back
3. Some coats of sanding sealer (sand?)
4. Tru-oil coats
5. Wet sand and polish

Does my plan sound reasonable? I'd like to keep the finish thin and smooth with some level of gloss or high sheen.

Any tips?
Thanks,
Ben

[Marcel]

Your plan seems reasonable.

Just a word of caution. Some grain fillers will re animate when wet. As in you have done a wonderful job of grain filling and sanding for all of it to come adrift when you apply your predominately wet stain..... choose your grain filler appropriately.

Also, sanding sealer is something typically applied first (after grain filling) to a surface to be painted. So not usually required with stained surfaces.

Hence personally I'd only do steps 1, 2, 4, & 5.... Ooooh, and lots and lots of step 4 if you want a successful step 5.

[Groovyman32]

Awesome - thank you Marcel

So if I'm using water based stains - these might reactivate the grain filler? So perhaps a non water based grain filler is right?

[Marcel]

Grain fillers like Timbermate use water to reanimate to a consistency suitable for spreading so if your stain is water based the filler will come loose or adrift when you wipe on your stain, but the filler is fine if you spray your color on to it. Alcohol based stains do not seem to affect Timbermate too badly.

In the past I have used home reno dry wall gap fillers like Selleys Spak filler which actually dries hard. It is a white filler that can be colored to taste and does not reanimate easily yet it is easy to spread and super easy to sand once dry.

[McCreed]

TMI is definitely a problem sometimes. What makes it harder is there are usually multiple "right answers".
Like many things, there can be many paths to the same destination.

Marcel's advice is good though. As for water based grain filler with water based stain, a lot probably depends of what grain filling product you use. Products like Timbermate (if that's available in the UK) can be tricky, but I have used it with w/b stain successfully.

If using Timbernmate or similar, one thing you can do prior to staining is "set it" with a few light coats of shellac (dewaxed). The Timbermate will absorb the shellac and basically seal it.

You then need to sand back the shellac so that only the grain filler is left in the grain. In other words, so the wood between the grain is not sealed.

That all said, there are some water based grain fillers out there that will work fine with water based dye like Glu-Boost or AquaCoat.
I have not used either of those but have read about positive experiences and good results with them.

[McCreed]

In the past I have used home reno dry wall gap fillers like Selleys Spak filler which actually dries hard. It is a white filler that can be colored to taste and does not reanimate easily yet it is easy to spread and super easy to sand once dry.

I missed this post as I was typing mine and didn't refresh...

That's interesting with the Spakfilla! I like it! Will have to try it.
I have used it for actually repairing walls and it does spread nicely. Good on ya.
Thanks

[Groovyman32]

Thanks everyone. I’ve got some Rustins natural grain filler which I think is oil based. So I’m hoping my stain won’t shift it.

I’ll report back when my kit arrives. It’s made it as far as Germany.