Thanks McCreed. I have a Parchment 'guard here, but also a pearled one on its way - I'll make that choice when it arrives. The Parchment one is looking pretty good though.Originally Posted by McCreed
Thanks McCreed. I have a Parchment 'guard here, but also a pearled one on its way - I'll make that choice when it arrives. The Parchment one is looking pretty good though.
I've now spayed a few coats of clear, and I think it's looking good. I think I'm going to stop there and leave it alone for a couple of weeks. I've still got some clear left, but I think I'll keep that in case I need to patch anything up. The surface isn't great - I'm working outside, so it's got some dust in it, but I'm hoping that'll all clear up when I sand it.
The neck is also progressing will, with four coats of Tru Oil on it now. The tiger stripe in this maple is really showing up nicely.
That's a lovely score with the figure in that neck, mate . Beauty
This is going to look amazing when finished. Well done
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Thanks guys.
I get the impression this is standard issue with this kit, i.e. they're supposed to have that figure. I am very happy with it, although I'm making a pigs ear of finishing it, but that's another matter.
I have both my pick guards now, and I think I prefer the pearloid - good call McCreed.
How long do you think I should leave the nitro finish before final sand and polish? I've read anything from 2 weeks to a month. I had reserved some of my clear, but now I'm thinking I might be better off giving the body a light wet sand with 1200 grit to address any dust in it, and then applying the rest of the can. It won't help me with a sand through while it's still in the can.
Nice! Pearloid for me every time (well, nearly).
A while a go I changed a couple of my pickguards because I noticed pearloid was "trending heavily" amongst my guitars!
As for doing more clear, I wouldn't wet sand, especially as fine as 1200.
If you've got enough clear to do 1 or 2 full coats, you could partially level what 's on there now before spaying the last of the clear.
It looks like you have some orange peel on there (the reflection on the lower bout in the photo). You could block sand that (dry) with 600 just to get some of that orange peel out before the next coats. Don't try to get it perfectly flat, just go for about 70% or so if you have concerns about sand-through.
This will do two things: give you a flatter surface for the next coat to lay on, and the abrading will help with the chemical bonding*.
You may be able to go as coarse as 400 on the orange peel, but I'd try the 600 and see how it feels.
*I know nitro will "melt into itself" (reactivate) but even with nitro, if it has set for a while it's a good idea to rough it up, IMO.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Thanks McCreed. Yes, there is a fair bit of orange peel, and I am resigned to the grain texture showing through, as I didn’t get that flat enough before starting with the nitro. Out of interest, why would you sand dry rather than wet?
I’m in a fairly same position. I have an ash strat body I didn’t grain fill enough. After spraying nitro the grain texture is still there (originally I wanted it smooth) I’m not sure how to get the orange peel out as I’m scared of dust from sanding and/or cutting compound getting into the grain and not being able to get rid of it. I did spray one flash coat to see if I can get away without sanding but it didn’t have much affect
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Wet sanding has more of a polishing effect than abrading of dry sanding....why would you sand dry rather than wet?
You can do a test on a piece of scrap that has finish on it: wet sand one area, then dry sand next to it. You can physically see the difference.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Grain filling by building up enough clear coat is difficult for two reasons. One, it takes a boot-load of clear to level out and getting a top coat that thick to cure will take two lifetimes (probably literally).
If you do sand the existing nitro, you should be able to clean it adequately with air (if you have a compressor) and thoroughly wiping down with naptha (shellite) or just naptha if air is not an option. I wouldn't recommend using cutting compound unless you know definitely it has no silicone or oil products in it.
Either of those will be problematic with adhesion of subsequent coats.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
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