Grain Fill or Not For Quilted Top

[GregLane]

I have done a quilt and flame veneer guitar. I agree with Ricky mostly.
I do a light sand with 400 grit then rub with metho looking very carefully for glue spots, A light sand on some glue spots may be necessary. GooOff will be needed.

The metho will raise the grain very slightly so need another 400 sand. Then as Ricky said thick dose of stain and wipe off most with metho. It will leave the quillt nice and dark. Can do it a couple of time if necessary. Then the recommended mix of stain. I do not use water.

You can see some of the issues I had with my guitars in the Build Dairy's in the signature block below.
I am still very much a learner but you will learn fast. Well worth the effort and take your time, search this forum incessantly. There are many very experienced members who have done it all before.

[Rodc]

Thank you Greg and Ricky. I very much appreciate your info! I knew the veneer was thin but not .3mm thin..😳
Going to be a slow process with this one..

[McCreed]

I have mentioned this ad nauseam on this and other forums, but I will say it again anyway...

On veneer, I don't actually use sandpaper. I use synthetic sanding pads (sometimes referred to as synthetic steel wool). I use them pre and post stain/dye and is also my go-to when smoothing between top coats like Tru Oil, shellac, wipe-on poly etc. (especially with hand applied finishes)

It comes in a variety of grits but less aggressive than their sand paper counterparts. They'restill effective but can help minimise dreaded sand-through.

[Rodc]

Thanks again McCreed for another top tip..👍
Like these ones? https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-...-pack_p1560045

[McCreed]

Like these ones? https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-...-pack_p1560045

No. The ones I use are 3M (Scotchbrite) or Bear Tex. I think the only ones you can get at the BGS will be the green Scotchbrite and they're sold as scrubbers for cleaning. The green are more or less equivalent to P400.
Green Scotchbrite Pads at Bunnings

I get my other ones from The Sandpaper Man here.

[Rodc]

Thanks Mc Creed. I’ll check them out..👍

[Theorn]

It's not normal to 'grain fill' as maple has closed pores, as does the rest of the ply the kit body is built with. That's not to say the surface will be absolutely smooth, but technically there are no pores to fill. The mahogany body on Ozbike's kit is open pored, so that did need grain filling. What you'll benefit from is really a 'surface sealer'.
t.

Thanks for sharing such valuable info. Are you suggesting that Sruface sealer be added after the stain or the surface sealer used as a method of raising the grain?
Sorry if the question is a bit ridiculous, but my knowledge of stains is limited to opening a can then adding or removing stain until I get a tone that I like.