On the necks I've built I installed them slightly long with overhang and trimmed them back to the fretboard before filing the ends round. This time I did a lot of the rounding/shaping before they went in.
This is the deluxster neck:
Initial seating
Trimmed (sorry not the best pic)
Finished
I'm thinking about doing a bound fretboard on the next one so this is good practice.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
I知 off the site for a few weeks and all this happens. Definitely turning into something now. How happy are you with it?
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Ahh, I get what you meant now.This time I did a lot of the rounding/shaping before they went in.
I do it similar to your old method in that I pre-cut each fret in order; place them in a wooden block with holes numbered 1-24. Then I install, trim etc. I do cut them with only a couple of mil overhang on each end though.
I like having them all in before shaping because I use a block with a file set at 35ｰ to get the bevel all the same, then tidy up each with a fret end file.
Just goes to show there are multiple ways of proverbial cat-skinning.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Yeah that's it. This build is just a bit of a mess around really, using up things I already have, so good to try different approaches on.Originally Posted by McCreed
Ahh, I get what you meant now.
I do it similar to your old method in that I pre-cut each fret in order; place them in a wooden block with holes numbered 1-24. Then I install, trim etc. I do cut them with only a couple of mil overhang on each end though.
I like having them all in before shaping because I use a block with a file set at 35ｰ to get the bevel all the same, then tidy up each with a fret end file.
Just goes to show there are multiple ways of proverbial cat-skinning.
Yeah, it's a fun build. I'm not being particularly precious with it, but I'm starting to think it might be quite a nice guitar when it's finished.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
i do the exact same thing as you McCreed, right down to the block with 24 holes. The latest effort was on the IB-5 filling the slot ends with Sheoak dust and super glue.Ahh, I get what you meant now.
I do it similar to your old method in that I pre-cut each fret in order; place them in a wooden block with holes numbered 1-24. Then I install, trim etc. I do cut them with only a couple of mil overhang on each end though.
I like having them all in before shaping because I use a block with a file set at 35ｰ to get the bevel all the same, then tidy up each with a fret end file.
Just goes to show there are multiple ways of proverbial cat-skinning.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Wow! I'm lazy and just use Timbermate!i do the exact same thing as you McCreed, right down to the block with 24 holes. The latest effort was on the IB-5 filling the slot ends with Sheoak dust and super glue.
However if I was making my own fretboards like you, I'd probably make the extra effort. Especially on a timber with a unique or very individual colour.
I'm presently contemplating a re-radius and re-fret on a bog standard maple neck I have since I'm taking a break from doing complete builds at the moment.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
I never though of using timbermate. But given the colour of the sheoak board I知 not sure I could get a match and it would have bugged me if it wasn稚 quite right.
Something to consider for the next one!
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FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
In these non-binary gender times, can you still say Sheoak? Theyoak would be a far more acceptable name, I'm sure
You can always get the natural Timbermate and tint it to match, but all the mixing & testing may be as much or more effort than saw dust & CA.I never though of using timbermate. But given the colour of the sheoak board I知 not sure I could get a match and it would have bugged me if it wasn稚 quite right.
Something to consider for the next one!
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Decided to lose the gold, this is better. I wonder if I could make a nut out of aluminium? Don't see why not...
I'm now thinking of doing the humbucker surround in alum as well.. but I think I'll wait and see as it does need to sit up a fair bit off the scratchplate, so might stick with the black plastic.
Also headstock decal on. Just using up some I already have printed so no name for this one as such.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
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